Funny to follow up my previous post, outlining various forms of transportation, crazy drivers, and even crazier [lack of] traffic laws, with this posting.
Yesterday marked my halfway point in Cambodia. I had been here exactly 5 of 10 weeks. To mark this anniversary, I took a trip to an international clinic. And here's why:
Riding my bike home from the theatre for my lunch break (lunch is 2 hours at most businesses here), I decided to try a vegetarian restaurant I had just noticed. So I went to turn into the restaurant, always careful to check my surroundings. But I failed to notice (in my bicycle's blind-spot, you might say) a moto zooming toward me. Of course this didn't end well, and within a second, I found myself on the road, legs around my bike, and the moto on top of me. First thing, I looked to make sure my tote bag was still wrapped around my handlebars (I carry bags in the plastic basket mounted on front of the bike, and always secure it around the handlebars to help prevent drive-by theft)...it was there. As many people looked on at this Barang (Cambodian slang for foreigner) sprawled out on the road, I stood up, and straightened my bike. A quick once-over showed minor scrapes, including a skinned knee, no broken bones, and fortunetely I did not hit my head (though of course I wore my helmet). The moto driver seemed just fine, and as he yelled at me in Khmer, I started to walk myself and my bicycle away. No need to wait for the cops, as they don't do anything unless it involves them getting money out of it. And in this situation, as a foreigner who doesn't know the language, I just wanted to get away before the moto driver tried to harrass me.
So I walked my bike the remaining 4 blocks home, fine on my feet, but of course in shock at the occurrance. I arrived home, parked my bike in the driveway, and went to my room. My first concern at this point was not at my physical well-being, but at my computer, which had been in the tote in the basket. I took it out of its case, and looked at the screen. No cracks. Then I turned it on, just to make sure. It was fine. Phew! I guess the suspension from being attached to the handle bars, as well as the protection from the plastic basket, absorbed the shock. Now, onto myself. I grabbed my small first aid kit and prepared to clean my scrapes and calm down. But as I looked at my knee, what at first appeared to be a minor scrape now looked to be a concern. (Warning for a somewhat gory descrption:) There was a big flap of skin hanging off the knee cap, and blood was now flowing down my leg. This was more than my alcohol wipes, neosporin, and band-aids could handle. And, this being Cambodia, with my body constantly exposed to new bugs, I didn't want to risk infection. So off I went once more.
I had heard about the International SOS Clinic, where many wealthy Cambodians and foreigners go. Fortunately, I had also ridden my bike past it and knew it was just a few blocks away. So I set off to the clinic, walking the three blocks with one pant leg rolled up, and people staring at this bloody foreigner. Moto drivers still called to me, seeing if I wanted a ride. Did they really want my bloody leg touching their bike???
Arriving at SOS, my temperature was taken before I entered the building. Yup, testing for swine flu. No flu in site, I was allowed inside, and taken to a room for triage. There was surprisingly no wait, and 2 nurses immediately attended to me, starting to assess my knee and having me fill out foms. A few minutes later, the doctor arrived. He is Cambodian, went to med school in Russia, and speaks Khmer, Russian, French, and English. He cleaned the wound, and informed me he would have to stitch it up. Having avoided stitches for the past 24 years, with the exception of the dissolvable kind given after removing wisdom teeth, I didn't want to start in Cambodia. So I asked, couldn't he just use body glue? But being on a joint, that was not an option. A few pricks of a local anesthesia later (a shot on the knee, where there is no fat and it just goes into cartilage, is not something I recommend), he began to sew me up. When finished (wow, that anesthetic is awesome, I didn't feel a thing!), he counted the stitches in Khmer, which I was glad to find that I understood, even in my crying state of shock, and I knew that I had boon, four, stitches. I left the clinic in less than an hour total, walking pretty well, considering what I had just been through.
Today, my knee feels no pain, though I have some soreness and bruising elsewhere. I feel very fortunate that a cut knee was the extent of my injury, and that I have only been in the one accident. If you saw the drivers here, you'd understand what I mean. For the next few days, it will be business as usual, with a few visits to the doctor for cleaning. I will stay off my bike and motos for a while (I have yet to even assess the damage to the bike), sticking to the more expensive, though much safer, tuk-tuks. And for the time being, at least I can look forward to removing the stitches next week, and watching a scar develop to always remind me of Cambodia, balancing out the scar on my right shin from Israel.
And as for that vegetarian restaurant, it will just have to wait...
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Living in Cambodia, Part 2
On bugs and pests:
Throughout SE Asia, ants, geckos, and cockroaches are a common site. Phnom Penh, with its sparkling clean streets (note sarcasm), is surely no exception. They are everywhere, inside and out, and it is not uncommon to share a shower with a lizard or two. But what I was unprepared for, having experienced the air-conditioned sanctuary of Singapore, are the mosquitoes. They are everywhere, and are harsh! At home, I typically wear bug spray if I'm in grassy or forested areas, and more often at night. But in Cambodia, they are everywhere, at all times of day. My first week, I was unprepared for this, and my legs became a breeding ground for mosquitoes, with a few dozen bites on each leg. Spending much time at the theatre outside, the mosquitoes swarmed me, preferring my light skin to the darker Cambodian skin around me. So now I layer on the bug spray every day.
On food:
Cambodian food is wonderful! Similar to the cuisine in neighboring Thailand and Vietnam (but less spicy than Thailand), dishes are typically rice or noodle based, with many fresh vegetables, prepared as curries and stir-fries. Fish is a large staple of the diet, put in cooked dishes, or dried and eaten as a snack; and nearly every dish contains fish sauce. Fortunately for me, most of the restaurants catering to foreigners feature a sizable selection of local vegetarian options (in addition to tourists, there is a huge expat community in Phnom Penh, mostly working for NGOs and embassies, and these restaurants not only feature English menus with English speaking staff, but food is prepared with filtered water and oils that are agreeable to Western digestive systems). There are also a few vegetarian restaurants around Phnom Penh with a great selection of Cambodian and Chinese options. I especially enjoy ginger fried tofu, Khmer noodles (short and wide round rice noodles prepared with a local sauce and veggies...delicious!), curries with tofu, and salads with shredded green papaya, peanuts, and other delicious delectables.
On poverty:
Cambodia is an incredibly poor nation, with the per capita income estimated to be averaging $300-$1000, meaning that a vast majority of the population lives on $1-2 per day, which may have to be spread among many members of a family. This puts into perspective barganing over $1 or $.50 in the market or with a tuk-tuk driver. People will do anything for money, and children are often put to work at a young age, not allowing time for school or our Western notion of a childhood. Adults and children walk around the city, often barefoot or in flimsy plastic flip-flops, pushing giant carts, collecting recyclables to redeem for a few cents each. Their squeaking plastic horns alert you to bring your bottles out to them, and they walk the streets at all hours of the day (often, when I am just drifting to sleep around midnight, a squeak startles me back awake). It is not uncommon to see these workers digging through garbage piles searching for anything they can redeem. Even more extreme, are the dump workers. As reported in the New York Times this November, many people, children included, make their living searching tirelessly through rubbish for anything recyclable, including electronics. They wade through the garbage, wearing no protective clothing or face masks; this makeshift playground is slowly poisioning its child laborers.
On education:
While there are many schools in Cambodia, and you can see uniformed children gleefully leaving school at the end of the day, the eduction system, like many operations in Cambodia, is corrupt. Teachers are paid approximately $20-$30 per month. This salary alone ranks them among Cambodia's poorest nationals. To counteract this, many measures are put in place to force children to pay for their education. It is not uncommon for children to be required to 'pay'(bribe) their teachers on a daily basis. Children who do not pay are locked out of the classroom. As children become older, with more specialized classes, and therefore more teachers, they must pay each teacher. Further, I have heard tales of teachers selling food for another salary boost, and if their students to not buy their food, they may be locked out of the classroom. Many children, already from poor families, are unable to attend school, as they cannot afford this bribery. This only exacerbates the trend of forcing children to work to help support the family.
While it may seem like the teacher is at fault, can you really blame them? Earning less than $1 per day hardly allows for survival, especially if they have families to feed. This really casts a new perspective on the weaknesses of the American educational system...
On corruption:
The rule of thumb in Cambodia is, money is power. Those who have, want more, and will do whatever it takes to retain money and build assets. Hence corrupt wealthy government officials, many who are ex-Khmer Rouge, who maintain extreme inequalities in the country.
Those who have not, will do whatever it takes to get it. From selling children into sex work, to a police officer accepting a bribe in lieu of a writing up a traffic violation, desperate times call for desperate measures.
Throughout SE Asia, ants, geckos, and cockroaches are a common site. Phnom Penh, with its sparkling clean streets (note sarcasm), is surely no exception. They are everywhere, inside and out, and it is not uncommon to share a shower with a lizard or two. But what I was unprepared for, having experienced the air-conditioned sanctuary of Singapore, are the mosquitoes. They are everywhere, and are harsh! At home, I typically wear bug spray if I'm in grassy or forested areas, and more often at night. But in Cambodia, they are everywhere, at all times of day. My first week, I was unprepared for this, and my legs became a breeding ground for mosquitoes, with a few dozen bites on each leg. Spending much time at the theatre outside, the mosquitoes swarmed me, preferring my light skin to the darker Cambodian skin around me. So now I layer on the bug spray every day.
On food:
Cambodian food is wonderful! Similar to the cuisine in neighboring Thailand and Vietnam (but less spicy than Thailand), dishes are typically rice or noodle based, with many fresh vegetables, prepared as curries and stir-fries. Fish is a large staple of the diet, put in cooked dishes, or dried and eaten as a snack; and nearly every dish contains fish sauce. Fortunately for me, most of the restaurants catering to foreigners feature a sizable selection of local vegetarian options (in addition to tourists, there is a huge expat community in Phnom Penh, mostly working for NGOs and embassies, and these restaurants not only feature English menus with English speaking staff, but food is prepared with filtered water and oils that are agreeable to Western digestive systems). There are also a few vegetarian restaurants around Phnom Penh with a great selection of Cambodian and Chinese options. I especially enjoy ginger fried tofu, Khmer noodles (short and wide round rice noodles prepared with a local sauce and veggies...delicious!), curries with tofu, and salads with shredded green papaya, peanuts, and other delicious delectables.
On poverty:
Cambodia is an incredibly poor nation, with the per capita income estimated to be averaging $300-$1000, meaning that a vast majority of the population lives on $1-2 per day, which may have to be spread among many members of a family. This puts into perspective barganing over $1 or $.50 in the market or with a tuk-tuk driver. People will do anything for money, and children are often put to work at a young age, not allowing time for school or our Western notion of a childhood. Adults and children walk around the city, often barefoot or in flimsy plastic flip-flops, pushing giant carts, collecting recyclables to redeem for a few cents each. Their squeaking plastic horns alert you to bring your bottles out to them, and they walk the streets at all hours of the day (often, when I am just drifting to sleep around midnight, a squeak startles me back awake). It is not uncommon to see these workers digging through garbage piles searching for anything they can redeem. Even more extreme, are the dump workers. As reported in the New York Times this November, many people, children included, make their living searching tirelessly through rubbish for anything recyclable, including electronics. They wade through the garbage, wearing no protective clothing or face masks; this makeshift playground is slowly poisioning its child laborers.
On education:
While there are many schools in Cambodia, and you can see uniformed children gleefully leaving school at the end of the day, the eduction system, like many operations in Cambodia, is corrupt. Teachers are paid approximately $20-$30 per month. This salary alone ranks them among Cambodia's poorest nationals. To counteract this, many measures are put in place to force children to pay for their education. It is not uncommon for children to be required to 'pay'(bribe) their teachers on a daily basis. Children who do not pay are locked out of the classroom. As children become older, with more specialized classes, and therefore more teachers, they must pay each teacher. Further, I have heard tales of teachers selling food for another salary boost, and if their students to not buy their food, they may be locked out of the classroom. Many children, already from poor families, are unable to attend school, as they cannot afford this bribery. This only exacerbates the trend of forcing children to work to help support the family.
While it may seem like the teacher is at fault, can you really blame them? Earning less than $1 per day hardly allows for survival, especially if they have families to feed. This really casts a new perspective on the weaknesses of the American educational system...
On corruption:
The rule of thumb in Cambodia is, money is power. Those who have, want more, and will do whatever it takes to retain money and build assets. Hence corrupt wealthy government officials, many who are ex-Khmer Rouge, who maintain extreme inequalities in the country.
Those who have not, will do whatever it takes to get it. From selling children into sex work, to a police officer accepting a bribe in lieu of a writing up a traffic violation, desperate times call for desperate measures.
Monday, June 22, 2009
On Living in Cambodia
Today marks four weeks of my Cambodian adventures. So I figure I'll post my long-overdue discussion about life here. Feel free to post comments and questions you may have!
On the weather:
It's hot, humid, and sticky. I have gotten over the fact that anytime I arrive somewhere, I will be dripping sweat. But it's ok, because everyone else is too! A fun experience is when I'm biking, and sweat begins to drip into my eyes and blur my vision. You should try that sometime!
It's the rainy season, and while this is enough to keep many tourists away (so it is also the low tourist season), the rain is actually not that bad. It tends to rain everyday, for 1-2 hours in the afternoon. Sometimes that means it pours for 20 minutes, and sometimes it's scattered throughout the day, but about 90% of the time, the sky is clear. I've come to appreciate the cooling effects of the rain, and find myself chilly in the evening after a late afternoon rain, sometimes even wearing a lightweight sweater. And it is definitely a SE Asian experience to get caught in the rain, when it appears out of nowhere (yes, it does rain while it is sunny), or you look up and think you can beat the approaching gray clouds on your bike (nope, not gonna happen). I quickly learned to just stay inside when the clouds gather, either staying at the theatre or finding a nice cafe to read in until the rain passes.
On transportation:
There are many ways to travel in Phnom Penh -- car, tuk-tuk, moto, cyclo, bike, and of course, foot. No matter which way you choose, you will encounter crazy streets, with vehicles moving in all directions, at all speeds, where traffic signs and signals are merely suggestions that are typically ignored.
Car. To drive a car, like most places in the world, you need a license. This, along with car ownership, requires a lot of money, therefore ruling out the majority of the population. I have been in a car with my host family, on a few occasions, and it is a luxurious experience to travel the roads with air conditioning and music coming through the speakers. But I would be terrified to drive in the streets here. With a lack of regard to traffic laws, you would think that cars, being bigger and potentially faster, would get the right of way. But with motos zipping quickly past, you never know when one will sneak up.
Nearly all the cars in Phnom Penh are new (manufactured within ten years), Japanese brands (with Toyota dominating), and many are luxury cars. There are many Lexus SUVs, with LEXUS written on the side to show off the owner's wealth, and Toyota sedans. There are also a great number of large black Escalades and Town cars, for the wealthy (including the corrupt government officials and families) to be driven in by their chauffeurs. Thus these are the big scary cars that should be especially avoided.
Taxis are very rare in the city. There is only one company for taxis, which has to be called, and is much more expensive than the alternate forms of transport, tuk-tuks and motos.
Tuk-tuks. Tuk-tuks are common in SE Asia, taking on their own form in each country. In Cambodia, tuk-tuks are essentially a 2-wheeled carriage being pulled by a motorcycle. They are great for getting around town, and can comfortably seat 4-5 Americans, or about 12 Cambodians (not just because they're smaller, but because they pile on top of one another, and sit on every possible surface, including the small area that connects the motorcycle to the carriage. Tuk-tuks are relatively fast (especially when they escape traffic by going the wrong way down a one-way street, or drive on the wrong side of a two-way divided highway) and relatively cheap. Within town, it is reasonable to pay around $1-1.50 for a short trip. But at night and when it rains (tuk-tuks are open on all sides, but have plastic that pulls down to keep riders dry when it rains), drivers expect you to pay more. And oh yea, if there are more people, it's more money. So a trip that might cost me only $1, suddenly becomes $4 if there are six people. As there is no meter or list of prices, you can basically pay whatever you think is fair and hope the driver doesn't yell at you or send someone after you.
In a moto during my visit to Cambodia in November, 2008.
Motos. A cheaper and faster alternative to the tuk-tuk. Motos are small motorcycles, more like motos than our giant American Harleys. Motos are ubiquitous in the developing countries of SE Asia, as they are cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, fast to get around, and can comfortably transport a family of 6 plus a refrigerator. In Cambodia, it is not uncommon to hop on the back of a friend's moto, or get a moto-taxi. Technically, a moto driver who charges riders should have a license. But actually, anyone who wants to make a few extra bucks can become a moto driver for a day. And, you don't have to have a license to drive a moto (I saw a kid of about 12 driving one the other day). Motos are cheaper than tuk-tuks, and most of the time are faster. Motos can be scary at times, especially when weaving in and out of cars, or driving through a red light at a major intersection, but accidents are actually fairly uncommon. I do have a helmet I bought for the cause, just to be on the safe side.
On a Moto with Sopheap, outside a wat (I usually wear my moto helmet, but I didn't have it with me, so I figure my bike helmet is better than nothing!).
Cyclo. Another inexpensive transport option are cyclos. Though not as ubiquitous as motos, and better for short trips, they are a nice way to travel at leisure and take in the surrounding city. Cyclos are cycle driven rickshaws. The cyclo drivers are among the poorest people in the city, often owning only their bike and the clothes on their backs. Going home at night, I often see cyclo drivers sleeping in their cyclos, or in a hammock with one side tied to a tree, the other to the cyclo. It is a humbling sight indeed.
A Cambodian family piled in a cyclo.
Bike. I have been riding a bike, on loan from my host family, since just about the day I arrived here. And I love it! It's freedom and exercise combined, and it's great fun speeding through the streets (the side streets that is...I use much caution when driving on the main, crowded, roads). While I ride a tuk-tuk or moto if I know I'll be out late, the bike is great for getting to the theatre during the day. I was nervous at first to ride in the crazy streets here, not knowing how I would navigate traffic and avoid being hit. But it's actually easier than it looks. While the streets appear to be lawless, the one rule everyone complies with, is not to hit anyone. So I swerve, I backtrack sometimes when I can't make the turn I need to make, and I brake with my feet when the bike's breaks aren't enough. But I quickly learned to just do my own thing, avoid the other vehicles, and not to hit anyone -- the others will do the same. Cambodians always look at me, uncommon as it is to see a Barang (foreigner) riding a bike...especially one with a helmet (yup, I brought my bike helmet from home....while you can buy a moto helmet anywhere on the street, bike helmets are rarely used, and accordingly, are difficult to find).
Foot. Of course, as in any city, walking is always an option. My host-home is located within walking distance of the river, the Royal Palace, a grocery store, an expat restaurant area, a big park, etc. The biggest drawback to walking, is that with every step comes a call of "Lady, you want tuk-tuk," or "Lady, moto!" There is always an excess of moto and tuk-tuks in town, but especially as it is the low-tourist season in a global recession, there is an even greater number of drivers just sitting and waiting for someone to drive. Biking is great, as I avoid these cat-calls, but whenever I walk somewhere, it is through a constant verbal stream. It's as if the drivers don't understand that sometimes, some people just like to walk. I do enjoy, however, since I mostly bike, that when I take a moto or tuk-tuk, I get to answer someone's call and give them a bit more business that day.
More on Cambodian living, and more pictures to come soon!
On the weather:
It's hot, humid, and sticky. I have gotten over the fact that anytime I arrive somewhere, I will be dripping sweat. But it's ok, because everyone else is too! A fun experience is when I'm biking, and sweat begins to drip into my eyes and blur my vision. You should try that sometime!
It's the rainy season, and while this is enough to keep many tourists away (so it is also the low tourist season), the rain is actually not that bad. It tends to rain everyday, for 1-2 hours in the afternoon. Sometimes that means it pours for 20 minutes, and sometimes it's scattered throughout the day, but about 90% of the time, the sky is clear. I've come to appreciate the cooling effects of the rain, and find myself chilly in the evening after a late afternoon rain, sometimes even wearing a lightweight sweater. And it is definitely a SE Asian experience to get caught in the rain, when it appears out of nowhere (yes, it does rain while it is sunny), or you look up and think you can beat the approaching gray clouds on your bike (nope, not gonna happen). I quickly learned to just stay inside when the clouds gather, either staying at the theatre or finding a nice cafe to read in until the rain passes.
On transportation:
There are many ways to travel in Phnom Penh -- car, tuk-tuk, moto, cyclo, bike, and of course, foot. No matter which way you choose, you will encounter crazy streets, with vehicles moving in all directions, at all speeds, where traffic signs and signals are merely suggestions that are typically ignored.
Car. To drive a car, like most places in the world, you need a license. This, along with car ownership, requires a lot of money, therefore ruling out the majority of the population. I have been in a car with my host family, on a few occasions, and it is a luxurious experience to travel the roads with air conditioning and music coming through the speakers. But I would be terrified to drive in the streets here. With a lack of regard to traffic laws, you would think that cars, being bigger and potentially faster, would get the right of way. But with motos zipping quickly past, you never know when one will sneak up.
Nearly all the cars in Phnom Penh are new (manufactured within ten years), Japanese brands (with Toyota dominating), and many are luxury cars. There are many Lexus SUVs, with LEXUS written on the side to show off the owner's wealth, and Toyota sedans. There are also a great number of large black Escalades and Town cars, for the wealthy (including the corrupt government officials and families) to be driven in by their chauffeurs. Thus these are the big scary cars that should be especially avoided.
Taxis are very rare in the city. There is only one company for taxis, which has to be called, and is much more expensive than the alternate forms of transport, tuk-tuks and motos.
Tuk-tuks. Tuk-tuks are common in SE Asia, taking on their own form in each country. In Cambodia, tuk-tuks are essentially a 2-wheeled carriage being pulled by a motorcycle. They are great for getting around town, and can comfortably seat 4-5 Americans, or about 12 Cambodians (not just because they're smaller, but because they pile on top of one another, and sit on every possible surface, including the small area that connects the motorcycle to the carriage. Tuk-tuks are relatively fast (especially when they escape traffic by going the wrong way down a one-way street, or drive on the wrong side of a two-way divided highway) and relatively cheap. Within town, it is reasonable to pay around $1-1.50 for a short trip. But at night and when it rains (tuk-tuks are open on all sides, but have plastic that pulls down to keep riders dry when it rains), drivers expect you to pay more. And oh yea, if there are more people, it's more money. So a trip that might cost me only $1, suddenly becomes $4 if there are six people. As there is no meter or list of prices, you can basically pay whatever you think is fair and hope the driver doesn't yell at you or send someone after you.
In a moto during my visit to Cambodia in November, 2008.
Yana, Rachel, and Tess (current Cambodian Fulbrighters) in a tuk-tuk.
Motos. A cheaper and faster alternative to the tuk-tuk. Motos are small motorcycles, more like motos than our giant American Harleys. Motos are ubiquitous in the developing countries of SE Asia, as they are cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, fast to get around, and can comfortably transport a family of 6 plus a refrigerator. In Cambodia, it is not uncommon to hop on the back of a friend's moto, or get a moto-taxi. Technically, a moto driver who charges riders should have a license. But actually, anyone who wants to make a few extra bucks can become a moto driver for a day. And, you don't have to have a license to drive a moto (I saw a kid of about 12 driving one the other day). Motos are cheaper than tuk-tuks, and most of the time are faster. Motos can be scary at times, especially when weaving in and out of cars, or driving through a red light at a major intersection, but accidents are actually fairly uncommon. I do have a helmet I bought for the cause, just to be on the safe side.
On a Moto with Sopheap, outside a wat (I usually wear my moto helmet, but I didn't have it with me, so I figure my bike helmet is better than nothing!).
Cyclo. Another inexpensive transport option are cyclos. Though not as ubiquitous as motos, and better for short trips, they are a nice way to travel at leisure and take in the surrounding city. Cyclos are cycle driven rickshaws. The cyclo drivers are among the poorest people in the city, often owning only their bike and the clothes on their backs. Going home at night, I often see cyclo drivers sleeping in their cyclos, or in a hammock with one side tied to a tree, the other to the cyclo. It is a humbling sight indeed.
A Cambodian family piled in a cyclo.Bike. I have been riding a bike, on loan from my host family, since just about the day I arrived here. And I love it! It's freedom and exercise combined, and it's great fun speeding through the streets (the side streets that is...I use much caution when driving on the main, crowded, roads). While I ride a tuk-tuk or moto if I know I'll be out late, the bike is great for getting to the theatre during the day. I was nervous at first to ride in the crazy streets here, not knowing how I would navigate traffic and avoid being hit. But it's actually easier than it looks. While the streets appear to be lawless, the one rule everyone complies with, is not to hit anyone. So I swerve, I backtrack sometimes when I can't make the turn I need to make, and I brake with my feet when the bike's breaks aren't enough. But I quickly learned to just do my own thing, avoid the other vehicles, and not to hit anyone -- the others will do the same. Cambodians always look at me, uncommon as it is to see a Barang (foreigner) riding a bike...especially one with a helmet (yup, I brought my bike helmet from home....while you can buy a moto helmet anywhere on the street, bike helmets are rarely used, and accordingly, are difficult to find).
Foot. Of course, as in any city, walking is always an option. My host-home is located within walking distance of the river, the Royal Palace, a grocery store, an expat restaurant area, a big park, etc. The biggest drawback to walking, is that with every step comes a call of "Lady, you want tuk-tuk," or "Lady, moto!" There is always an excess of moto and tuk-tuks in town, but especially as it is the low-tourist season in a global recession, there is an even greater number of drivers just sitting and waiting for someone to drive. Biking is great, as I avoid these cat-calls, but whenever I walk somewhere, it is through a constant verbal stream. It's as if the drivers don't understand that sometimes, some people just like to walk. I do enjoy, however, since I mostly bike, that when I take a moto or tuk-tuk, I get to answer someone's call and give them a bit more business that day.
More on Cambodian living, and more pictures to come soon!
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Apsara Dance
Here is a video from my Apsara dance lesson with Paula, a distinguished dancer who also does accounting for Sovanna Phum. In addition to learning some basic dance moves, she taught me stretches to make my fingers curve in that unnatural way the dancers' fingers do. She wants me to do them everyday, but after a great pain in my forearm, I have to admit I've been slacking in my stretches. Nonetheless, enjoy the video (sorry that it's sideways, I can't rotate with basic Quicktime, so next time I'll know to shoot horizontally...).
Friday, June 12, 2009
Jewelry Designer
The past two weeks of volunteering at Sovanna Phum have seen some interesting projects. Last week, I edited show descriptions that are given to foreign visitors. Translating from something that vaguely resembles English, to literate English, was difficult at times, amusing at others (I know, I know, English is not the first language of the translator, but we've all had the experience of a humorous translation, so laugh with me!).
For instance, I changed this:
Last week I also oversaw the cleaning and re-organization of the Puppet Shop and Gallery. The shop doubles as an office, but I tried to communicate the importance of the shop being inviting from the outside. We cannot control whether audience members buy anything, but we can certainly re-arrange to encourage them to go inside.
With a little encouragement and some fresh ideas on my part, theatre workers made it their own -- they took the idea of change, and ran with it. Soon, every puppet was off the wall, shelves were moved between rooms, a computer desk was moved from a place of prominence to a less central location that is also more conducive to work and playing music. Previously, some of the most impressive puppets and photographs were above the door, or on the adjacent wall. But now they are across from the door, so they can be seen from outside the shop, and have been spruced up with colored lights. The new shop arrangement is both inviting and open, showcasing the products while remaining comfortable, with space to move and a flowy breeze, and artistic, with spray-painted pinecones and leather keychains hanging from the ceiling. I also provided the suggestion to invite our guests to try making a puppet right then and there, for fun, to advertise puppet-making classes they offer, and to remind them that making the shadow puppets is both a skill and an art. So we set out a pattern and tools, crafting a bird that will be the eventual product of a hundred hands.
Rearranging the placement of impressive puppets.
Yana, a Cambodian Fulbrighter, learning how to make a puppet after a performance.
This week led to a new challenge and excitement. I was asked what other products can be sold in the store to generate increased revenue for the theatre. While many people love the hand made puppets, the theatre staff recognize that not everyone has a purpose or desire to own a puppet, and for some travelers they are too big to carry (who are those crazy people that wouldn't want a puppet?!?!). I made a lengthy list of possible items to show off the leather crafting skills: belts, purses, picture frames, wrist cuffs, brooches. But we decided to start simple, and this week I have been experimenting, with the assistance and artistry of the puppet makers, with jewelry design. I went to the market to buy ear wires, necklace chains, and spray enamel to protect the leather. Through trial and error, in just a few days, we have generated a line of earrings and necklaces that will go on sale at tonight's performance, and will be showcased in the US upon my return! It's been very exciting, all my American friends here want to buy them (or learn to make them!), and I can't wait to see the audience's reaction.
At the same time, we have been developing greeting cards with leather designs on front. Not being able to find good quality blank cards in the market, I bought paper, printed it with the theatre's name, and have been hand-cutting cards, explaining to my Cambodian friends why we add a blank white paper to the inside (the cards are marbelized yellow, and the white section is for writing). The puppet makers, meanwhile, have been doing their thing and producing beautiful, intricate designs, ranging from lotus flowers and birds, to heads of Ramayana characters.
Like with re-organizing the shop, it's wonderful to see that, with a little encouragement and a little push, they have made the projects their own. This morning, I looked around and while I was attaching ear wires to earrings, four artisans were carving out different designs. They are very excited to continue with both the jewelry (utilizing scraps of leather from the puppets, making it almost no cost to them by using what would otherwise go in the garbage) and cards (Lakena already had the idea to make animal designs based on the Chinese Zodiac for use as birthday cards).
What new adventure is in store for next week? Perhaps we will experiment with color on the jewelry, or making picture frames? I have the weekend to think about it, and will report back with updates!
Lakena showing off some of our finished jewelry designs.
Carving a lotus for a greeting card.
Putting the finishing touches on a bird to go on a card.
A few of our finished cards.
For instance, I changed this:
"Got seriously injured, Enthachit went to see his mother for help. Immediately after having been drinking his mother’s milk, he was completely cured and wanted to go back to the battle field. His mother insisted not to let him make war with Rama but he refused. This time at war, he’s disguising himself as Preah Indra (King of Heaven) accompanied by Apsara (Angel Dancers), in order to fool Preah Laks again."To this:
"Seriously injured from the arrow, Enthachit goes to his mother for help. He drinks her milk, and is instantly cured. Enthachit's strength returns, and despite his mother's insistence that he not continue war with Rama, he returns to the battle. Enthachit once again tries to fool Preah Laks, and arrives at the battle field disguised as Preah Indra (King of Heaven), accompanied by Apsara (Angel Dancers)."
Last week I also oversaw the cleaning and re-organization of the Puppet Shop and Gallery. The shop doubles as an office, but I tried to communicate the importance of the shop being inviting from the outside. We cannot control whether audience members buy anything, but we can certainly re-arrange to encourage them to go inside.
With a little encouragement and some fresh ideas on my part, theatre workers made it their own -- they took the idea of change, and ran with it. Soon, every puppet was off the wall, shelves were moved between rooms, a computer desk was moved from a place of prominence to a less central location that is also more conducive to work and playing music. Previously, some of the most impressive puppets and photographs were above the door, or on the adjacent wall. But now they are across from the door, so they can be seen from outside the shop, and have been spruced up with colored lights. The new shop arrangement is both inviting and open, showcasing the products while remaining comfortable, with space to move and a flowy breeze, and artistic, with spray-painted pinecones and leather keychains hanging from the ceiling. I also provided the suggestion to invite our guests to try making a puppet right then and there, for fun, to advertise puppet-making classes they offer, and to remind them that making the shadow puppets is both a skill and an art. So we set out a pattern and tools, crafting a bird that will be the eventual product of a hundred hands.
Rearranging the placement of impressive puppets.
Yana, a Cambodian Fulbrighter, learning how to make a puppet after a performance.At the same time, we have been developing greeting cards with leather designs on front. Not being able to find good quality blank cards in the market, I bought paper, printed it with the theatre's name, and have been hand-cutting cards, explaining to my Cambodian friends why we add a blank white paper to the inside (the cards are marbelized yellow, and the white section is for writing). The puppet makers, meanwhile, have been doing their thing and producing beautiful, intricate designs, ranging from lotus flowers and birds, to heads of Ramayana characters.
Like with re-organizing the shop, it's wonderful to see that, with a little encouragement and a little push, they have made the projects their own. This morning, I looked around and while I was attaching ear wires to earrings, four artisans were carving out different designs. They are very excited to continue with both the jewelry (utilizing scraps of leather from the puppets, making it almost no cost to them by using what would otherwise go in the garbage) and cards (Lakena already had the idea to make animal designs based on the Chinese Zodiac for use as birthday cards).
What new adventure is in store for next week? Perhaps we will experiment with color on the jewelry, or making picture frames? I have the weekend to think about it, and will report back with updates!
Lakena showing off some of our finished jewelry designs.
Carving a lotus for a greeting card.
Putting the finishing touches on a bird to go on a card.
A few of our finished cards.Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Let Them Stay Kids
I know it's all around me. I know I encounter it on a daily basis. I know it's at the heart of the country. But I will never be able to fully understand it.
A few nights ago, I took my $.75 street noodles into my host family's bedroom (which also serves as a living/dining room, in true Khmer fashion), and ate with them on the floor. I would have eaten the food they made for dinner, but their diet is strongly fish based and I don't want to inconvenience them with my vegetarian needs.
As I ate, with Sina (husband), Chivy (wife), and Nichola (5 year old boy), I remarked on how smart and fun Nichola is to be around, and how wonderful it is that he and his 1-year old brother Felix are always smiling and seem so happy. To which Sina replied, "We want them to stay kids for as long as they can, and to enjoy their childhood." My mind immediately went to the thousands of kids across Cambodia who work on the street with their parents, begging, selling, and collecting garbage. Or the children who are sold and trafficked into other countries and local brothels. I thought that Sina was implying that he and his wife work hard to provide well for their family so they can stay kids and not have to work at such a young age - a common sentiment among middle class parents around the world. Because of course Sina couldn't be talking about the other thing.
But Sina continued, "Because you know when I was his age, we had the Khmer Rouge." Oh, there it is! While I know Pol Pot's regime, resulting in mass genocide of 25% of the population, was recent, in the 70's, it was before I was born, resulting in my skewed sense of time perception. For some reason, I assumed Sina and Chivy were born after this period, in a sort of Cambodian baby-boom generation after libreation from the camps. But no, they were there. Sina was in camps, having gone to France as a refugee (he, and therefore his sons, have duel nationality). Chivy was born during the regime, and lived in an orphanage, separated from her mother at the beginning of her life.
We didn't talk much more about it, as we went on to talk about our days and some of my work at the theatre. But it really made me think. I had already thought that I wanted to talk to Chivy's mother about her experiences during the war when I know her a bit better and language isn't as much of a barrier, a woman of 70 strong years. But now I see that it's not just the elderly, it's the strong middle agers, it's the people who are just a decade older than me. The same people who honk and ask if I need a moto, the kind woman in the shop next to the theatre where I buy my Coke Zero every morning, the men who work in the theatre, working hard yet always stopping to rest and eat.
I am surrounded by survivors. And they are truly amazing.
A few nights ago, I took my $.75 street noodles into my host family's bedroom (which also serves as a living/dining room, in true Khmer fashion), and ate with them on the floor. I would have eaten the food they made for dinner, but their diet is strongly fish based and I don't want to inconvenience them with my vegetarian needs.
As I ate, with Sina (husband), Chivy (wife), and Nichola (5 year old boy), I remarked on how smart and fun Nichola is to be around, and how wonderful it is that he and his 1-year old brother Felix are always smiling and seem so happy. To which Sina replied, "We want them to stay kids for as long as they can, and to enjoy their childhood." My mind immediately went to the thousands of kids across Cambodia who work on the street with their parents, begging, selling, and collecting garbage. Or the children who are sold and trafficked into other countries and local brothels. I thought that Sina was implying that he and his wife work hard to provide well for their family so they can stay kids and not have to work at such a young age - a common sentiment among middle class parents around the world. Because of course Sina couldn't be talking about the other thing.
But Sina continued, "Because you know when I was his age, we had the Khmer Rouge." Oh, there it is! While I know Pol Pot's regime, resulting in mass genocide of 25% of the population, was recent, in the 70's, it was before I was born, resulting in my skewed sense of time perception. For some reason, I assumed Sina and Chivy were born after this period, in a sort of Cambodian baby-boom generation after libreation from the camps. But no, they were there. Sina was in camps, having gone to France as a refugee (he, and therefore his sons, have duel nationality). Chivy was born during the regime, and lived in an orphanage, separated from her mother at the beginning of her life.
We didn't talk much more about it, as we went on to talk about our days and some of my work at the theatre. But it really made me think. I had already thought that I wanted to talk to Chivy's mother about her experiences during the war when I know her a bit better and language isn't as much of a barrier, a woman of 70 strong years. But now I see that it's not just the elderly, it's the strong middle agers, it's the people who are just a decade older than me. The same people who honk and ask if I need a moto, the kind woman in the shop next to the theatre where I buy my Coke Zero every morning, the men who work in the theatre, working hard yet always stopping to rest and eat.
I am surrounded by survivors. And they are truly amazing.
Hanuman and Giant Drum
Now this is what I call a DRUM show! Last weekend's performance at Sovanna Phum, Hanuman and Giant Drum was an incredible drumming show, filled with an hour of intricate drumming patterns, comedy, and fantastic dancing. With an all male ensemble, the action never stopped. Presenting a variety of local and international drumming styles and instruments, the 10 drummers kept the beat going all night.
The performance began with a Buddhist ritual celebration, burning incense on a fruit alter, and lighting candles mounted on some of the drums (these candles stayed lit throughout the performance until they melted away, shocking me that they didn't take the drums - and theatre - down with them). This rutual welcomed the audience into the space, into the world created onstage, and introduced drumming as a spiritual artform, connecting the performers to each other and the audience. The ritual also helped to introduce the Buddhist story that would unfold to a slight degree, drumming and dancing as part of the ongoing battle between Giants and Monkeys in the Reamkher, the Cambodian version of the Ramayana. A small gong signaled the beginning of the performance, not to be heard again until the last number.
From here, the performance was shaped by 6-10 minute performance pieces, showcasing different instruments and highlighting different artists. One number proved highly comedic as six drummers left the stage one at a time, leaving a lone artist, the most elderly in the company, playing a traditional flat lute-like stringed instrument. Completely unaware of being left alone, he kept playing until the director jumped on stage and gave him a friendly slap to bring him back to reality. At which point he bashfully and apologetically left the stage.
There was also a piece with a drum and dance-off, where artists came forward and showed off their unique moves. This ended with one of the drummers, Mony, lifting and holding a tall African style drum by his teeth. Making the entire audience gasp and applaud with amazement, this feat became more impressive to me as I thought about his strong teeth without dental care and strengthening fluoride as we have in the states.
Hanuman and Giant Drum would not be complete without the spectacular dancing. Four young dancers appeared in the first half of the performance in a 'Giant' dance, with traditional Apsara style moves and regal gold costumes. But in the second half, accompanied by crashing sounds, they entered through the audience as monkeys, making the children giggle with delight and screams of 'SWAA!' ('monkey' in Khmer). They scampered through the aisles, and jumped on the stage. A favorite moment of mine was watching one monkey discover a drum, wacking it carelessly with a stick. Such a simple motion completely contained within his body, and his physical control rivaled that of the best American physical actors I have seen -- there was absolutely no doubt that he was a monkey.
At the end of the show, the director invited audience members up to learn from the performers. Of course I went up, learning from my friend Mony (the same drummer who held a drum with his teeth) how to play a low flat drum and putting my lifetime of rhythm training to use (that's what happens when your mother is a music teacher). It was a blast!
I attended both performances of the show, encouraging all my expat friends to join, and can't wait to see it again at the end of the month when it is re-mounted.
The performance began with a Buddhist ritual celebration, burning incense on a fruit alter, and lighting candles mounted on some of the drums (these candles stayed lit throughout the performance until they melted away, shocking me that they didn't take the drums - and theatre - down with them). This rutual welcomed the audience into the space, into the world created onstage, and introduced drumming as a spiritual artform, connecting the performers to each other and the audience. The ritual also helped to introduce the Buddhist story that would unfold to a slight degree, drumming and dancing as part of the ongoing battle between Giants and Monkeys in the Reamkher, the Cambodian version of the Ramayana. A small gong signaled the beginning of the performance, not to be heard again until the last number.
From here, the performance was shaped by 6-10 minute performance pieces, showcasing different instruments and highlighting different artists. One number proved highly comedic as six drummers left the stage one at a time, leaving a lone artist, the most elderly in the company, playing a traditional flat lute-like stringed instrument. Completely unaware of being left alone, he kept playing until the director jumped on stage and gave him a friendly slap to bring him back to reality. At which point he bashfully and apologetically left the stage.
There was also a piece with a drum and dance-off, where artists came forward and showed off their unique moves. This ended with one of the drummers, Mony, lifting and holding a tall African style drum by his teeth. Making the entire audience gasp and applaud with amazement, this feat became more impressive to me as I thought about his strong teeth without dental care and strengthening fluoride as we have in the states.
Hanuman and Giant Drum would not be complete without the spectacular dancing. Four young dancers appeared in the first half of the performance in a 'Giant' dance, with traditional Apsara style moves and regal gold costumes. But in the second half, accompanied by crashing sounds, they entered through the audience as monkeys, making the children giggle with delight and screams of 'SWAA!' ('monkey' in Khmer). They scampered through the aisles, and jumped on the stage. A favorite moment of mine was watching one monkey discover a drum, wacking it carelessly with a stick. Such a simple motion completely contained within his body, and his physical control rivaled that of the best American physical actors I have seen -- there was absolutely no doubt that he was a monkey.
At the end of the show, the director invited audience members up to learn from the performers. Of course I went up, learning from my friend Mony (the same drummer who held a drum with his teeth) how to play a low flat drum and putting my lifetime of rhythm training to use (that's what happens when your mother is a music teacher). It was a blast!
I attended both performances of the show, encouraging all my expat friends to join, and can't wait to see it again at the end of the month when it is re-mounted.
Friday, June 5, 2009
Happy Birthday!
The host family I'm staying with is absolutely wonderful. Like most Khmers, they are warm and friendly, always smiling. They have welcomed me into their home, and last Sunday was Felix's first birthday. Of course, this called for a birthday party! The party was actually for both Felix and 5 year old Nichola (whose birthday is in August), so it was double the celebration!
The day started with a trip to the market. I accompanied Chivy (the mom) and her friend to the local market, selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to sides of beef and freshly made noodles, all arranged in a chaotic yet organized manner (and that's just on the outside -- the inside boasts everything you'll ever need, like Target has exploded). Being a Sunday morning, the market was absolutely packed, as that is when the best and freshest choices of the week arrive. Watching my every step, I carefully followed my hosts through the market, taking it all in and being a crazy tourist with my camera at every junction. We bought about 7 bags of fresh food, which I thought I would be holding on the moto (moped-like motorcycles, the preferred method of transport in much of Indochina...and yes, I have a helmet) ride back. As it was, there were already three of us sitting on one bike and only a small basket in the front. But somehow, the food all fit into the basket, and by the driver's feet (there's a small foot pad there, which is the perfect size for anything small...food, a backpack, children, chicken).
When we returned home, party preparation was in full swing! Curry ingredients were being mixed with mortar and pestle, pots of deliciousness were heating on the stove, and balloons were being strung all over the driveway. I helped with the balloons, and allowed myself to be fed whenever offered, or about every 20 minutes (something I have learned that Asians have in common with Jews -- always giving you more and more food).
I had just stepped into my room to rest for a minute, when a knock at the door alerted me that the family was going to the Pagoda - would I like to go with? Of course! I have been to many Buddhist temples (often called Wats or Pagodas), but never with a family as part of a celebration (something I never had the chance to do in Singapore)! We drove to the Pagoda (my first time in a car in a week!), and went into a small room with a beautiful alter of Buddha statues, incense, and offerings to the monks. There were a few monks in the room, who greeted us and blessed the children (Felix and Nichola were there, as well as Sina and Chivy's two young nieces). The grandmother handed everyone a stick of incense, and I was honored when she gave me one as well, to leave as an offering to the monks. Going with the family to such a special occassion reaffirmed my fortune at being able to experience Cambodia's beautiful culture, and reminded me of the beauties of living with a family. Sure, a home-stay requires more compromises and adjustments than living in a nice apartment with other foreigners, but the rewards are incomparable.
Early in the afternoon, we sat down on the floor in the living room, to a wonderful feast with two kinds of noodles, fresh vegetables (yay!), curries, fruit, and of course, cake. There were two cakes, one for each boy, each decorated with the animal of the boy's Chinese zodiac. Felix, born last year, is a rat, and Nichola is a monkey. I'd like to see my cake with an ox....not as cuddly an animal :-) The cakes were surprisingly delicious (most cakes and pastries I've had in SE Asia are nothing compared to our American counterparts), and the birthday boys were happy.
It was a great day of celebrating, feasting, and getting to know the family. I met the French woman who lives upstairs and works at an NGO archiving Cambodia. I met Chivy's fire-cracker sister-in-law who offered for me to stay in one of the three extra bedrooms in her air-conditioned house. And of course, I played with the kids! Happy Birthday Felix and Nichola!
The day started with a trip to the market. I accompanied Chivy (the mom) and her friend to the local market, selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to sides of beef and freshly made noodles, all arranged in a chaotic yet organized manner (and that's just on the outside -- the inside boasts everything you'll ever need, like Target has exploded). Being a Sunday morning, the market was absolutely packed, as that is when the best and freshest choices of the week arrive. Watching my every step, I carefully followed my hosts through the market, taking it all in and being a crazy tourist with my camera at every junction. We bought about 7 bags of fresh food, which I thought I would be holding on the moto (moped-like motorcycles, the preferred method of transport in much of Indochina...and yes, I have a helmet) ride back. As it was, there were already three of us sitting on one bike and only a small basket in the front. But somehow, the food all fit into the basket, and by the driver's feet (there's a small foot pad there, which is the perfect size for anything small...food, a backpack, children, chicken).
When we returned home, party preparation was in full swing! Curry ingredients were being mixed with mortar and pestle, pots of deliciousness were heating on the stove, and balloons were being strung all over the driveway. I helped with the balloons, and allowed myself to be fed whenever offered, or about every 20 minutes (something I have learned that Asians have in common with Jews -- always giving you more and more food).
I had just stepped into my room to rest for a minute, when a knock at the door alerted me that the family was going to the Pagoda - would I like to go with? Of course! I have been to many Buddhist temples (often called Wats or Pagodas), but never with a family as part of a celebration (something I never had the chance to do in Singapore)! We drove to the Pagoda (my first time in a car in a week!), and went into a small room with a beautiful alter of Buddha statues, incense, and offerings to the monks. There were a few monks in the room, who greeted us and blessed the children (Felix and Nichola were there, as well as Sina and Chivy's two young nieces). The grandmother handed everyone a stick of incense, and I was honored when she gave me one as well, to leave as an offering to the monks. Going with the family to such a special occassion reaffirmed my fortune at being able to experience Cambodia's beautiful culture, and reminded me of the beauties of living with a family. Sure, a home-stay requires more compromises and adjustments than living in a nice apartment with other foreigners, but the rewards are incomparable.
Early in the afternoon, we sat down on the floor in the living room, to a wonderful feast with two kinds of noodles, fresh vegetables (yay!), curries, fruit, and of course, cake. There were two cakes, one for each boy, each decorated with the animal of the boy's Chinese zodiac. Felix, born last year, is a rat, and Nichola is a monkey. I'd like to see my cake with an ox....not as cuddly an animal :-) The cakes were surprisingly delicious (most cakes and pastries I've had in SE Asia are nothing compared to our American counterparts), and the birthday boys were happy.
It was a great day of celebrating, feasting, and getting to know the family. I met the French woman who lives upstairs and works at an NGO archiving Cambodia. I met Chivy's fire-cracker sister-in-law who offered for me to stay in one of the three extra bedrooms in her air-conditioned house. And of course, I played with the kids! Happy Birthday Felix and Nichola!
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Look At Us Now
Sovanna Phum has performances every Friday and Saturday night, playing to both the local Cambodian population, as well as foreigners. Typically, the performance is from the theatre's cannon of ten or so traditional puppet, dance, and drum shows, rotating throughout the year. Last weekend, my first in Cambodia, was a special treat. It was the premier of Look At Us Now, a contemporary dance performance presented at Sovanna Phum by New Cambodian Artists, a project by young musicians and dancers in Phnom Penh. Look At Us Now was a co-collaboration between these Cambodian artists with a Dutch director and designers.
The piece explored the current situation of Cambodian artists, from where they started, to where they are now, tracking through the country's history and culture. The performance integrated traditional Apsara dance and contemporary dance with projections (rarely seen by Cambodian audiences), drums, and recorded music that helped tell the story.
Below are two videos from the performance. The first video is the women dancing in traditional Apsara style, in front of projections of Apsara carvings from Angkor Wat. Apsara (meaning, Angel Dancer) is a large part of Cambodian culture, and the iconic carvings from Angkor Wat are memorized by Cambodians around the world.
In the second video, the dancers perform the artist's position during the Khmer Rouge regime. The projections are of a photograph display at Tuol Sleng, the Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh. Easily recognized by anyone who has been in the museum, and any Cambodian, the photographs show every person who entered Tuol Sleng (a torture prison during the regime), most of whom never left. Much of this video is in silence (street noises are heard as the theatre is outside), with drums making the sound effects.
Look At Us Now was a stunning, exciting dance performance, that I was privileged to experience. It was a great introduction, coincidentally at the beginning of my time here, to contemporary Cambodian performance, showcasing the fusion of new and old. As I am studying classical performance techniques, it's a great reminder that Cambodian artists, like Cambodians in many other fields, are inquisitive and innovative, and as the country around them surges forward with continued development, they are ready to take the leap ahead.
The piece explored the current situation of Cambodian artists, from where they started, to where they are now, tracking through the country's history and culture. The performance integrated traditional Apsara dance and contemporary dance with projections (rarely seen by Cambodian audiences), drums, and recorded music that helped tell the story.
Below are two videos from the performance. The first video is the women dancing in traditional Apsara style, in front of projections of Apsara carvings from Angkor Wat. Apsara (meaning, Angel Dancer) is a large part of Cambodian culture, and the iconic carvings from Angkor Wat are memorized by Cambodians around the world.
In the second video, the dancers perform the artist's position during the Khmer Rouge regime. The projections are of a photograph display at Tuol Sleng, the Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh. Easily recognized by anyone who has been in the museum, and any Cambodian, the photographs show every person who entered Tuol Sleng (a torture prison during the regime), most of whom never left. Much of this video is in silence (street noises are heard as the theatre is outside), with drums making the sound effects.
Look At Us Now was a stunning, exciting dance performance, that I was privileged to experience. It was a great introduction, coincidentally at the beginning of my time here, to contemporary Cambodian performance, showcasing the fusion of new and old. As I am studying classical performance techniques, it's a great reminder that Cambodian artists, like Cambodians in many other fields, are inquisitive and innovative, and as the country around them surges forward with continued development, they are ready to take the leap ahead.
Friday, May 29, 2009
My first puppet!
Today I made my first shadow puppet!Lakena (pictured with a crocodile), who works at Sovanna Phum making and selling puppets, was my instructor. Today's puppet is simple, a
small bird.For this puppet, the crafting is fairly simple, using basic leather carving tools and techniques. First, the pattern was taped to the leather, then I carved out the lines and shadows as on the pattern. There were a few curved designs that take more finesse with the tools; I certainly improved while making this puppet, and with time I will become even better. After the pattern was completely cut, I painted detailing and contrast lines using a watered down dye. Finally, the bird was attached to a bamboo reed, and viola, a shadow puppet!
I started a more complicated and bigger gecko, but won't have time to finish it until Monday. Also on the radar for next week, a monkey or human with movable limbs!
China Encounter
Jumping back in time a bit, but I wanted to share my brief experience in China.
To get to Cambodia, I flew through Shanghai. Here is what I wrote in the Shanghai airport, after nearly 24 hours of travel and no coffee:
So I'm sitting in the Shanghai airport. And while I don't have a visa, I have stepped foot in China (I went outside the terminal during my layover; shhh, don't tell!)!
Before getting off the plane that took me from San Fransisco to Shanghai, every passenger and crew member had to wait in their seats to be screened for swine flu. So, promptly upon pulling up to the gate, Chinese health officials entered the plane, wearing white quarantine suits that you might see in a movie when someone's contracted Ebola, complete with goggles and face masks. They pointed a laser gun at everyone's face to take his/her temperature, and with a red X on your forehead, you look like you're being scanned at the grocery store. If you have a fever, you and anyone sitting within 3 rows of you will be quarantined. In China. In the hospital. Which flight attendants call prison. (Last week, a handful of them were quarantined.)
Part of me hoped I had a fever just to be able to look at the experience in retrospect and laugh. Part of me was also terrified of being quarantined, and then, not having a visa, becoming a prisoner in limbo. Fortunately, no one had a fever.
The airport is spotless and sparking. There are recycling cans and fountains of 'sterilized water' (which I question, as the water tasted like dirt, and I had stomach problems that night, so it was either the water or the airplane food...equal demons in my book). As I waited in line for immigration (which I had to go through even though I only had a few hour layover), they played lovely classical Chinese instrumental music. Lovely until they played 'Memory' (yes, the one from 'Cats'). As I write this, sitting outside the Hope Star Coffee Cate, I hear 'Colors of the Wind.' Nonetheless, I'm happy to take advantage of the last clean, non-squat toilets I might see in a while.
Welcome to China. Zaijian!
To get to Cambodia, I flew through Shanghai. Here is what I wrote in the Shanghai airport, after nearly 24 hours of travel and no coffee:
So I'm sitting in the Shanghai airport. And while I don't have a visa, I have stepped foot in China (I went outside the terminal during my layover; shhh, don't tell!)!
Before getting off the plane that took me from San Fransisco to Shanghai, every passenger and crew member had to wait in their seats to be screened for swine flu. So, promptly upon pulling up to the gate, Chinese health officials entered the plane, wearing white quarantine suits that you might see in a movie when someone's contracted Ebola, complete with goggles and face masks. They pointed a laser gun at everyone's face to take his/her temperature, and with a red X on your forehead, you look like you're being scanned at the grocery store. If you have a fever, you and anyone sitting within 3 rows of you will be quarantined. In China. In the hospital. Which flight attendants call prison. (Last week, a handful of them were quarantined.)
Part of me hoped I had a fever just to be able to look at the experience in retrospect and laugh. Part of me was also terrified of being quarantined, and then, not having a visa, becoming a prisoner in limbo. Fortunately, no one had a fever.
The airport is spotless and sparking. There are recycling cans and fountains of 'sterilized water' (which I question, as the water tasted like dirt, and I had stomach problems that night, so it was either the water or the airplane food...equal demons in my book). As I waited in line for immigration (which I had to go through even though I only had a few hour layover), they played lovely classical Chinese instrumental music. Lovely until they played 'Memory' (yes, the one from 'Cats'). As I write this, sitting outside the Hope Star Coffee Cate, I hear 'Colors of the Wind.' Nonetheless, I'm happy to take advantage of the last clean, non-squat toilets I might see in a while.
Welcome to China. Zaijian!
Thursday, May 28, 2009
Welcome to the Kingdom!
I'm in Cambodia!
All I've been thinking for the past two days is how amazing it feels to be back in SE Asia, and how fortunate I am to be here (a HUGE shout out to the folks at TYA/USA!). It's so normal and natural for me to be here, and after 5 months of wanting to come back, I've arrived!
Today I moved in with my homestay family. I'm living with Sina Ouch, the managing director of Sovanna Phum. He and his wife are fluent in English, and their 5 year old son Nichola speaks Khmer (the language of Cambodia) and French! Maybe I'll teach him some English and he can teach me Khmer; I find that the best words to know are the ones spoken by a 5 year old in any language, like when I learned "oishi" means "yummy" from a 4 year old Japanese boy.
The family also includes the grandmother, sister-in-law (who I have yet to meet), and Felix, Sina's son who turns 1 on Sunday. The family has been so warm and gracious, welcoming me into their home; they are excited I will be here for Felix's birthday party, and keep telling me to think of it as my home too.
The home is in a great central part of the city, bordered by local neighborhoods and one of the city's major streets. I'm very close to the Independence Monument, and not too far from the Royal Palace. I can walk to markets, parks, and the Mekong River. Today I walked to the supermarket, a fantastic bookstore, an expat neighborhood, a tourist neighborhood, and kept my poise while avoiding motorbikes coming from every direction.
Tomorrow is my first day of work at Sovanna Phum (Sina tells me I'll be making a puppet!), and tomorrow night I will see their performance of contemporary works.
This weekend will be one of continued exploration, helping me become acquainted with my home for the summer. And I'll try to get some pictures up!
All I've been thinking for the past two days is how amazing it feels to be back in SE Asia, and how fortunate I am to be here (a HUGE shout out to the folks at TYA/USA!). It's so normal and natural for me to be here, and after 5 months of wanting to come back, I've arrived!
Today I moved in with my homestay family. I'm living with Sina Ouch, the managing director of Sovanna Phum. He and his wife are fluent in English, and their 5 year old son Nichola speaks Khmer (the language of Cambodia) and French! Maybe I'll teach him some English and he can teach me Khmer; I find that the best words to know are the ones spoken by a 5 year old in any language, like when I learned "oishi" means "yummy" from a 4 year old Japanese boy.
The family also includes the grandmother, sister-in-law (who I have yet to meet), and Felix, Sina's son who turns 1 on Sunday. The family has been so warm and gracious, welcoming me into their home; they are excited I will be here for Felix's birthday party, and keep telling me to think of it as my home too.
The home is in a great central part of the city, bordered by local neighborhoods and one of the city's major streets. I'm very close to the Independence Monument, and not too far from the Royal Palace. I can walk to markets, parks, and the Mekong River. Today I walked to the supermarket, a fantastic bookstore, an expat neighborhood, a tourist neighborhood, and kept my poise while avoiding motorbikes coming from every direction.
Tomorrow is my first day of work at Sovanna Phum (Sina tells me I'll be making a puppet!), and tomorrow night I will see their performance of contemporary works.
This weekend will be one of continued exploration, helping me become acquainted with my home for the summer. And I'll try to get some pictures up!
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Cambodian Three
My friend recently asked me what three things are on my must-do list for this summer. I was stumped. Other than learning about traditional Khmer theatre practices, experiencing the culture, and traveling the country (no small order for just over two months!), I could only think of one specific must-do! After thinking about it for a few days, I've come up with my Cambodian Three:
1) Visit Banteay Srei
Last year, I visited the phenomenal Angkor Temples in Siem Reap. I was blown away with the magnitude and details of Angkor Wat, the overgrowth of Ta Phrom, and the grown-up jungle gym of Ta Keo. Pressed for time and exhaustion with only one day to see the temples, I didn't see Banteay Srei, set 40 km away from the others. While I had wanted to see Banteay Srei at the time, having heard of its beauty, I didn't feel a loss since we had already seen so much. But since visiting the temples, Banteay Srei is the one I continuously hear about. Many Cambodians still pray there, experienced travelers remark on it, and the Cambodian Association of Illinois has an exterior relief based on Banteay Srei's carvings. This summer, I will see Banteay Srei.
2) Line Dancing on the Streets of Phnom Penh
While wandering the streets of Phnom Pehn, I saw a group of people gathered across from the Royal Palace at dusk. There were three distinct groups, with around 30 people, a boombox, and a leader. Suddenly three simultaneous yet separate line dancing sessions began. I didn't join them then, but I will definitely join them now!
3) Eat a fried tarantula.
KIDDING! But the culinary risk takers among us certainly can, along with snakes, cockroaches, larve, and fire ants. Yum!
3A) Volunteer!
Part of my work with Sovanna Phum will include giving back to the theatre and the community, by tutoring young performers in English, etc. But in Phnom Penh, there are so many ways to contribute to the growth of the culture and individuals. From tutoring kids to help them stay off the streets and see the joy of education, to adults trying to work in the lucrative tourist industry, cleaning up a jungle trail, and of course, sharing the arts, there are infinite possibilities to give back. Stay tuned to see what I discover...
1) Visit Banteay Srei
Last year, I visited the phenomenal Angkor Temples in Siem Reap. I was blown away with the magnitude and details of Angkor Wat, the overgrowth of Ta Phrom, and the grown-up jungle gym of Ta Keo. Pressed for time and exhaustion with only one day to see the temples, I didn't see Banteay Srei, set 40 km away from the others. While I had wanted to see Banteay Srei at the time, having heard of its beauty, I didn't feel a loss since we had already seen so much. But since visiting the temples, Banteay Srei is the one I continuously hear about. Many Cambodians still pray there, experienced travelers remark on it, and the Cambodian Association of Illinois has an exterior relief based on Banteay Srei's carvings. This summer, I will see Banteay Srei.
2) Line Dancing on the Streets of Phnom Penh
While wandering the streets of Phnom Pehn, I saw a group of people gathered across from the Royal Palace at dusk. There were three distinct groups, with around 30 people, a boombox, and a leader. Suddenly three simultaneous yet separate line dancing sessions began. I didn't join them then, but I will definitely join them now!
3) Eat a fried tarantula.
KIDDING! But the culinary risk takers among us certainly can, along with snakes, cockroaches, larve, and fire ants. Yum!
3A) Volunteer!
Part of my work with Sovanna Phum will include giving back to the theatre and the community, by tutoring young performers in English, etc. But in Phnom Penh, there are so many ways to contribute to the growth of the culture and individuals. From tutoring kids to help them stay off the streets and see the joy of education, to adults trying to work in the lucrative tourist industry, cleaning up a jungle trail, and of course, sharing the arts, there are infinite possibilities to give back. Stay tuned to see what I discover...
Friday, May 15, 2009
The Magical Kingdom
For today's post, here's a short background taken from the Lonely Planet website:
There’s a magic about Cambodia that casts a spell on many who visit this charming yet confounding kingdom. Ascend to the realm of the gods at the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of symbolism, symmetry and spirituality. Descend into the hell of Tuol Sleng and come face to face with the Khmer Rouge and its killing machine. Welcome to the conundrum that is Cambodia: a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, an intoxicating place where the future is waiting to be shaped.
Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too is Cambodia more than its temples. The chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom Penh is a hub of political intrigue, economic vitality and intellectual debate. All too often overlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking off Angkor on a regional tour, the revitalised city of Siem Reap is finally earning plaudits in its own right thanks to a gorgeous riverside location, a cultural renaissance, and a dining and drinking scene to rival the best in the region. And don’t forget the rest of the country: relax in the sleepy seaside town of Kampot and trek the nearby Bokor National Park; take an elephant ride in the jungles of Mondulkiri Province; ogle the Mekong dolphins at Kratie or simply choose a beach near Sihanoukville.
The years of fear and loathing are finally over and Angkor is once more the symbol of the nation, drawing pilgrims from across the globe. Peace has come to this beautiful yet blighted land after three decades of war, and the Cambodian people have opened their arms to the world. Tourism has well and truly taken off, yet a journey here remains an adventure as much as a holiday.
Contemporary Cambodia is the successor state to the mighty Khmer empire, which, during the Angkor period, ruled much of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The remains of this empire can be seen at the fabled temples of Angkor, monuments unrivalled in scale and grandeur in Southeast Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is matched by only a few select spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra.
Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the heavyweights, but to some extent they are a bubble, a world away from the Cambodia of the countryside. This is the place to experience the rhythm of rural life and timeless landscapes of dazzling rice paddies and swaying sugar palms. Spend some time in the srok (provinces), as Cambodians call them, enjoying a dar leng (walkabout) to discover the true flavour of the country.
The south coast is fringed by tropical islands, with barely a beach hut in sight. The next Ko Samui or Gili Trawangan awaits discovery and, for now, visitors can play Robinson Crusoe. Inland from the coast lie the Cardamom Mountains, part of a vast tropical wilderness that provides a home to elusive wildlife and is the gateway to emerging ecotourism adventures. The mighty Mekong River cuts through the country and is home to some of the region’s last remaining freshwater dolphins; cyclists or dirt bikers can follow the river’s length as it meanders through traditional communities. The northeast is a world unto itself, its wild and mountainous landscapes a home for Cambodia’s ethnic minorities and an abundance of natural attractions, including thundering waterfalls and pristine crater lakes.
Despite this beautiful backdrop, life is no picnic for the average Cambodian. It remains one of the poorest countries in Asia and it’s a tough existence for much of the population, as they battle it out against the whims of nature and, sometimes, of their politicians. According to the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP; www.undp.org), Cambodia remains poorer than Mongolia and El Salvador, just scraping in ahead of Mauritania, while Transparency International (www.transparency.org), the anticorruption watchdog, rates the country a lowly 151 out of the 163 countries ranked. Income remains desperately low for many Khmers, with annual salaries in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands, and public servants such as teachers unable to eke out a living on their meagre wages.
Cambodia’s pristine environment may be a big draw, but much of it is currently under threat. Ancient forests are being razed to make way for plantations, rivers are being sized up for major hydroelectric power plants and the south coast is being explored by leading oil companies. All this helps add up to an ever-stronger economy, which is growing at an incredible 10% a year, but it’s unlikely to encourage the ecotourism that is just starting to develop.
Cambodia is like the teen starlet who has just been discovered by an adoring public: everyone wants something from her but not everyone wants what is best for her. The government, long shunned by international big business, is keen to benefit from all these newfound opportunities. Contracts are being signed off like autographs and there are concerns for the long-term interests of the country.
Tourism has brought many benefits to Cambodia: it provides opportunity and employment for a new generation of Khmers, has helped to spark a rebirth of the traditional arts, and has given the country a renewed sense of pride and optimism as it recovers from the dark decades of war and genocide. However, not all tourism has been good for the country and there is the dark side of sex tourism, human exploitation and a casino culture. Cambodia is in a great position to benefit from the mistakes of other countries in the region and follow a sustainable road to tourism development. However, it may be that the government is more focused on the short-term gain that megabucks investments can provide. Can Cambodia be all things to all visitors? So far, so good, but a new era is about to begin and the beaches are the next battleground.
There are two faces to Cambodia: one shiny and happy, the other dark and complex. For every illegal eviction of city dwellers or land grab by a general, there will be a new NGO school offering better education, or a new clean-water initiative to improve the lives of the average villager. Such is the yin and yang of Cambodia, a country that inspires and confounds. Like an onion, the more layers you unravel, the more it makes you want to cry, but these are spontaneous tears, sometimes of sorrow, sometimes of joy.
Despite having the eighth wonder of the world in its backyard, Cambodia’s greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back, struggling through years of bloodshed, poverty and political instability. Thanks to an unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism, they have prevailed with their smiles intact; no visitor comes away from Cambodia without a measure of admiration and affection for the inhabitants of this enigmatic kingdom.
Cambodia: beaches as beautiful as Thailand but without the tourist tide; wilds as remote as Laos but even less explored; cuisine as subtle as Vietnam but yet to be discovered; and temples that leave Burma and Indonesia in the shade. This is the heart of Southeast Asia, with everything the region has to offer packed into one bite-sized country. If you were only planning to spend a week in Cambodia, it’s time to think again.
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Why Cambodia?
I am honored to be the recipient of an Ann Shaw Fellowship, from Theatre for Young Audiences USA -- TYA/USA. This fellowship is sending me to Cambodia to apprentice with the Sovanna Phum Arts Association. I visited the theatre when I was in Cambodia last November. Above are pictures from the production I saw, and below is a brief video clip. Here is an excerpt from my application for the fellowship, which will tell you more about why I'm going:
My first day in Phnom Penh [during my brief visit to Cambodia last year], the capitol city, I happened upon the Sovanna Phum Art Association. Here, I saw a traditional performance, Preah Kho Botr, incorporating shadow puppets, Apsara dance, and live Khmer music in the telling of a Khmer folk tale pre-dating the Ramayana. What first told me that this production would be different from others I had seen was the mix of locals and tourists in the audience. While the tourist market helps to financially sustain the theatre, the locals in the audience told me this theatre is committed to keeping the arts and traditions alive. And it sure was; the production was magical! I am a tech-theatre junkie, yet I was completely captivated and catapulted into another world in a theatre with just 12 lights, puppets, and a cyc. Both children and adults, both Cambodians and foreigners, were spellbound.
I hope to return to Phnom Penh next year to apprentice with Sovanna Phum (Golden Era) and learn about their traditional art forms – Khmer puppetry, music, and dance. I look forward to incorporating my new skills into both drama education and TYA in a myriad of ways: teaching body control and movement, part of a devising process and product, use in performances, etc. While many American children have not been exposed to shadow puppetry, they are certainly captivated by creating their own hand shadows with an unattended projector; shadow puppets take that natural curiosity to the next level. In Singapore [on my Fulbright Fellowship last year], I assistant directed a play incorporating human shadows, which students loved both performing and watching. My experience with Sovanna Phum will also inform a TYA play I intend to write – what could be better prep than learning about traditional art forms and stories from a traditional company!
11 days!
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Cambodia, Here I Come!
I'll be leaving for Phnom Penh, Cambodia on May 25 (that's Memorial Day).
Getting excited!
Getting excited!
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