On bugs and pests:
Throughout SE Asia, ants, geckos, and cockroaches are a common site. Phnom Penh, with its sparkling clean streets (note sarcasm), is surely no exception. They are everywhere, inside and out, and it is not uncommon to share a shower with a lizard or two. But what I was unprepared for, having experienced the air-conditioned sanctuary of Singapore, are the mosquitoes. They are everywhere, and are harsh! At home, I typically wear bug spray if I'm in grassy or forested areas, and more often at night. But in Cambodia, they are everywhere, at all times of day. My first week, I was unprepared for this, and my legs became a breeding ground for mosquitoes, with a few dozen bites on each leg. Spending much time at the theatre outside, the mosquitoes swarmed me, preferring my light skin to the darker Cambodian skin around me. So now I layer on the bug spray every day.
On food:
Cambodian food is wonderful! Similar to the cuisine in neighboring Thailand and Vietnam (but less spicy than Thailand), dishes are typically rice or noodle based, with many fresh vegetables, prepared as curries and stir-fries. Fish is a large staple of the diet, put in cooked dishes, or dried and eaten as a snack; and nearly every dish contains fish sauce. Fortunately for me, most of the restaurants catering to foreigners feature a sizable selection of local vegetarian options (in addition to tourists, there is a huge expat community in Phnom Penh, mostly working for NGOs and embassies, and these restaurants not only feature English menus with English speaking staff, but food is prepared with filtered water and oils that are agreeable to Western digestive systems). There are also a few vegetarian restaurants around Phnom Penh with a great selection of Cambodian and Chinese options. I especially enjoy ginger fried tofu, Khmer noodles (short and wide round rice noodles prepared with a local sauce and veggies...delicious!), curries with tofu, and salads with shredded green papaya, peanuts, and other delicious delectables.
On poverty:
Cambodia is an incredibly poor nation, with the per capita income estimated to be averaging $300-$1000, meaning that a vast majority of the population lives on $1-2 per day, which may have to be spread among many members of a family. This puts into perspective barganing over $1 or $.50 in the market or with a tuk-tuk driver. People will do anything for money, and children are often put to work at a young age, not allowing time for school or our Western notion of a childhood. Adults and children walk around the city, often barefoot or in flimsy plastic flip-flops, pushing giant carts, collecting recyclables to redeem for a few cents each. Their squeaking plastic horns alert you to bring your bottles out to them, and they walk the streets at all hours of the day (often, when I am just drifting to sleep around midnight, a squeak startles me back awake). It is not uncommon to see these workers digging through garbage piles searching for anything they can redeem. Even more extreme, are the dump workers. As reported in the New York Times this November, many people, children included, make their living searching tirelessly through rubbish for anything recyclable, including electronics. They wade through the garbage, wearing no protective clothing or face masks; this makeshift playground is slowly poisioning its child laborers.
On education:
While there are many schools in Cambodia, and you can see uniformed children gleefully leaving school at the end of the day, the eduction system, like many operations in Cambodia, is corrupt. Teachers are paid approximately $20-$30 per month. This salary alone ranks them among Cambodia's poorest nationals. To counteract this, many measures are put in place to force children to pay for their education. It is not uncommon for children to be required to 'pay'(bribe) their teachers on a daily basis. Children who do not pay are locked out of the classroom. As children become older, with more specialized classes, and therefore more teachers, they must pay each teacher. Further, I have heard tales of teachers selling food for another salary boost, and if their students to not buy their food, they may be locked out of the classroom. Many children, already from poor families, are unable to attend school, as they cannot afford this bribery. This only exacerbates the trend of forcing children to work to help support the family.
While it may seem like the teacher is at fault, can you really blame them? Earning less than $1 per day hardly allows for survival, especially if they have families to feed. This really casts a new perspective on the weaknesses of the American educational system...
On corruption:
The rule of thumb in Cambodia is, money is power. Those who have, want more, and will do whatever it takes to retain money and build assets. Hence corrupt wealthy government officials, many who are ex-Khmer Rouge, who maintain extreme inequalities in the country.
Those who have not, will do whatever it takes to get it. From selling children into sex work, to a police officer accepting a bribe in lieu of a writing up a traffic violation, desperate times call for desperate measures.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Monday, June 22, 2009
On Living in Cambodia
Today marks four weeks of my Cambodian adventures. So I figure I'll post my long-overdue discussion about life here. Feel free to post comments and questions you may have!
On the weather:
It's hot, humid, and sticky. I have gotten over the fact that anytime I arrive somewhere, I will be dripping sweat. But it's ok, because everyone else is too! A fun experience is when I'm biking, and sweat begins to drip into my eyes and blur my vision. You should try that sometime!
It's the rainy season, and while this is enough to keep many tourists away (so it is also the low tourist season), the rain is actually not that bad. It tends to rain everyday, for 1-2 hours in the afternoon. Sometimes that means it pours for 20 minutes, and sometimes it's scattered throughout the day, but about 90% of the time, the sky is clear. I've come to appreciate the cooling effects of the rain, and find myself chilly in the evening after a late afternoon rain, sometimes even wearing a lightweight sweater. And it is definitely a SE Asian experience to get caught in the rain, when it appears out of nowhere (yes, it does rain while it is sunny), or you look up and think you can beat the approaching gray clouds on your bike (nope, not gonna happen). I quickly learned to just stay inside when the clouds gather, either staying at the theatre or finding a nice cafe to read in until the rain passes.
On transportation:
There are many ways to travel in Phnom Penh -- car, tuk-tuk, moto, cyclo, bike, and of course, foot. No matter which way you choose, you will encounter crazy streets, with vehicles moving in all directions, at all speeds, where traffic signs and signals are merely suggestions that are typically ignored.
Car. To drive a car, like most places in the world, you need a license. This, along with car ownership, requires a lot of money, therefore ruling out the majority of the population. I have been in a car with my host family, on a few occasions, and it is a luxurious experience to travel the roads with air conditioning and music coming through the speakers. But I would be terrified to drive in the streets here. With a lack of regard to traffic laws, you would think that cars, being bigger and potentially faster, would get the right of way. But with motos zipping quickly past, you never know when one will sneak up.
Nearly all the cars in Phnom Penh are new (manufactured within ten years), Japanese brands (with Toyota dominating), and many are luxury cars. There are many Lexus SUVs, with LEXUS written on the side to show off the owner's wealth, and Toyota sedans. There are also a great number of large black Escalades and Town cars, for the wealthy (including the corrupt government officials and families) to be driven in by their chauffeurs. Thus these are the big scary cars that should be especially avoided.
Taxis are very rare in the city. There is only one company for taxis, which has to be called, and is much more expensive than the alternate forms of transport, tuk-tuks and motos.
Tuk-tuks. Tuk-tuks are common in SE Asia, taking on their own form in each country. In Cambodia, tuk-tuks are essentially a 2-wheeled carriage being pulled by a motorcycle. They are great for getting around town, and can comfortably seat 4-5 Americans, or about 12 Cambodians (not just because they're smaller, but because they pile on top of one another, and sit on every possible surface, including the small area that connects the motorcycle to the carriage. Tuk-tuks are relatively fast (especially when they escape traffic by going the wrong way down a one-way street, or drive on the wrong side of a two-way divided highway) and relatively cheap. Within town, it is reasonable to pay around $1-1.50 for a short trip. But at night and when it rains (tuk-tuks are open on all sides, but have plastic that pulls down to keep riders dry when it rains), drivers expect you to pay more. And oh yea, if there are more people, it's more money. So a trip that might cost me only $1, suddenly becomes $4 if there are six people. As there is no meter or list of prices, you can basically pay whatever you think is fair and hope the driver doesn't yell at you or send someone after you.
In a moto during my visit to Cambodia in November, 2008.
Motos. A cheaper and faster alternative to the tuk-tuk. Motos are small motorcycles, more like motos than our giant American Harleys. Motos are ubiquitous in the developing countries of SE Asia, as they are cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, fast to get around, and can comfortably transport a family of 6 plus a refrigerator. In Cambodia, it is not uncommon to hop on the back of a friend's moto, or get a moto-taxi. Technically, a moto driver who charges riders should have a license. But actually, anyone who wants to make a few extra bucks can become a moto driver for a day. And, you don't have to have a license to drive a moto (I saw a kid of about 12 driving one the other day). Motos are cheaper than tuk-tuks, and most of the time are faster. Motos can be scary at times, especially when weaving in and out of cars, or driving through a red light at a major intersection, but accidents are actually fairly uncommon. I do have a helmet I bought for the cause, just to be on the safe side.
On a Moto with Sopheap, outside a wat (I usually wear my moto helmet, but I didn't have it with me, so I figure my bike helmet is better than nothing!).
Cyclo. Another inexpensive transport option are cyclos. Though not as ubiquitous as motos, and better for short trips, they are a nice way to travel at leisure and take in the surrounding city. Cyclos are cycle driven rickshaws. The cyclo drivers are among the poorest people in the city, often owning only their bike and the clothes on their backs. Going home at night, I often see cyclo drivers sleeping in their cyclos, or in a hammock with one side tied to a tree, the other to the cyclo. It is a humbling sight indeed.
A Cambodian family piled in a cyclo.
Bike. I have been riding a bike, on loan from my host family, since just about the day I arrived here. And I love it! It's freedom and exercise combined, and it's great fun speeding through the streets (the side streets that is...I use much caution when driving on the main, crowded, roads). While I ride a tuk-tuk or moto if I know I'll be out late, the bike is great for getting to the theatre during the day. I was nervous at first to ride in the crazy streets here, not knowing how I would navigate traffic and avoid being hit. But it's actually easier than it looks. While the streets appear to be lawless, the one rule everyone complies with, is not to hit anyone. So I swerve, I backtrack sometimes when I can't make the turn I need to make, and I brake with my feet when the bike's breaks aren't enough. But I quickly learned to just do my own thing, avoid the other vehicles, and not to hit anyone -- the others will do the same. Cambodians always look at me, uncommon as it is to see a Barang (foreigner) riding a bike...especially one with a helmet (yup, I brought my bike helmet from home....while you can buy a moto helmet anywhere on the street, bike helmets are rarely used, and accordingly, are difficult to find).
Foot. Of course, as in any city, walking is always an option. My host-home is located within walking distance of the river, the Royal Palace, a grocery store, an expat restaurant area, a big park, etc. The biggest drawback to walking, is that with every step comes a call of "Lady, you want tuk-tuk," or "Lady, moto!" There is always an excess of moto and tuk-tuks in town, but especially as it is the low-tourist season in a global recession, there is an even greater number of drivers just sitting and waiting for someone to drive. Biking is great, as I avoid these cat-calls, but whenever I walk somewhere, it is through a constant verbal stream. It's as if the drivers don't understand that sometimes, some people just like to walk. I do enjoy, however, since I mostly bike, that when I take a moto or tuk-tuk, I get to answer someone's call and give them a bit more business that day.
More on Cambodian living, and more pictures to come soon!
On the weather:
It's hot, humid, and sticky. I have gotten over the fact that anytime I arrive somewhere, I will be dripping sweat. But it's ok, because everyone else is too! A fun experience is when I'm biking, and sweat begins to drip into my eyes and blur my vision. You should try that sometime!
It's the rainy season, and while this is enough to keep many tourists away (so it is also the low tourist season), the rain is actually not that bad. It tends to rain everyday, for 1-2 hours in the afternoon. Sometimes that means it pours for 20 minutes, and sometimes it's scattered throughout the day, but about 90% of the time, the sky is clear. I've come to appreciate the cooling effects of the rain, and find myself chilly in the evening after a late afternoon rain, sometimes even wearing a lightweight sweater. And it is definitely a SE Asian experience to get caught in the rain, when it appears out of nowhere (yes, it does rain while it is sunny), or you look up and think you can beat the approaching gray clouds on your bike (nope, not gonna happen). I quickly learned to just stay inside when the clouds gather, either staying at the theatre or finding a nice cafe to read in until the rain passes.
On transportation:
There are many ways to travel in Phnom Penh -- car, tuk-tuk, moto, cyclo, bike, and of course, foot. No matter which way you choose, you will encounter crazy streets, with vehicles moving in all directions, at all speeds, where traffic signs and signals are merely suggestions that are typically ignored.
Car. To drive a car, like most places in the world, you need a license. This, along with car ownership, requires a lot of money, therefore ruling out the majority of the population. I have been in a car with my host family, on a few occasions, and it is a luxurious experience to travel the roads with air conditioning and music coming through the speakers. But I would be terrified to drive in the streets here. With a lack of regard to traffic laws, you would think that cars, being bigger and potentially faster, would get the right of way. But with motos zipping quickly past, you never know when one will sneak up.
Nearly all the cars in Phnom Penh are new (manufactured within ten years), Japanese brands (with Toyota dominating), and many are luxury cars. There are many Lexus SUVs, with LEXUS written on the side to show off the owner's wealth, and Toyota sedans. There are also a great number of large black Escalades and Town cars, for the wealthy (including the corrupt government officials and families) to be driven in by their chauffeurs. Thus these are the big scary cars that should be especially avoided.
Taxis are very rare in the city. There is only one company for taxis, which has to be called, and is much more expensive than the alternate forms of transport, tuk-tuks and motos.
Tuk-tuks. Tuk-tuks are common in SE Asia, taking on their own form in each country. In Cambodia, tuk-tuks are essentially a 2-wheeled carriage being pulled by a motorcycle. They are great for getting around town, and can comfortably seat 4-5 Americans, or about 12 Cambodians (not just because they're smaller, but because they pile on top of one another, and sit on every possible surface, including the small area that connects the motorcycle to the carriage. Tuk-tuks are relatively fast (especially when they escape traffic by going the wrong way down a one-way street, or drive on the wrong side of a two-way divided highway) and relatively cheap. Within town, it is reasonable to pay around $1-1.50 for a short trip. But at night and when it rains (tuk-tuks are open on all sides, but have plastic that pulls down to keep riders dry when it rains), drivers expect you to pay more. And oh yea, if there are more people, it's more money. So a trip that might cost me only $1, suddenly becomes $4 if there are six people. As there is no meter or list of prices, you can basically pay whatever you think is fair and hope the driver doesn't yell at you or send someone after you.
In a moto during my visit to Cambodia in November, 2008.
Yana, Rachel, and Tess (current Cambodian Fulbrighters) in a tuk-tuk.
Motos. A cheaper and faster alternative to the tuk-tuk. Motos are small motorcycles, more like motos than our giant American Harleys. Motos are ubiquitous in the developing countries of SE Asia, as they are cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, fast to get around, and can comfortably transport a family of 6 plus a refrigerator. In Cambodia, it is not uncommon to hop on the back of a friend's moto, or get a moto-taxi. Technically, a moto driver who charges riders should have a license. But actually, anyone who wants to make a few extra bucks can become a moto driver for a day. And, you don't have to have a license to drive a moto (I saw a kid of about 12 driving one the other day). Motos are cheaper than tuk-tuks, and most of the time are faster. Motos can be scary at times, especially when weaving in and out of cars, or driving through a red light at a major intersection, but accidents are actually fairly uncommon. I do have a helmet I bought for the cause, just to be on the safe side.
On a Moto with Sopheap, outside a wat (I usually wear my moto helmet, but I didn't have it with me, so I figure my bike helmet is better than nothing!).
Cyclo. Another inexpensive transport option are cyclos. Though not as ubiquitous as motos, and better for short trips, they are a nice way to travel at leisure and take in the surrounding city. Cyclos are cycle driven rickshaws. The cyclo drivers are among the poorest people in the city, often owning only their bike and the clothes on their backs. Going home at night, I often see cyclo drivers sleeping in their cyclos, or in a hammock with one side tied to a tree, the other to the cyclo. It is a humbling sight indeed.
A Cambodian family piled in a cyclo.Bike. I have been riding a bike, on loan from my host family, since just about the day I arrived here. And I love it! It's freedom and exercise combined, and it's great fun speeding through the streets (the side streets that is...I use much caution when driving on the main, crowded, roads). While I ride a tuk-tuk or moto if I know I'll be out late, the bike is great for getting to the theatre during the day. I was nervous at first to ride in the crazy streets here, not knowing how I would navigate traffic and avoid being hit. But it's actually easier than it looks. While the streets appear to be lawless, the one rule everyone complies with, is not to hit anyone. So I swerve, I backtrack sometimes when I can't make the turn I need to make, and I brake with my feet when the bike's breaks aren't enough. But I quickly learned to just do my own thing, avoid the other vehicles, and not to hit anyone -- the others will do the same. Cambodians always look at me, uncommon as it is to see a Barang (foreigner) riding a bike...especially one with a helmet (yup, I brought my bike helmet from home....while you can buy a moto helmet anywhere on the street, bike helmets are rarely used, and accordingly, are difficult to find).
Foot. Of course, as in any city, walking is always an option. My host-home is located within walking distance of the river, the Royal Palace, a grocery store, an expat restaurant area, a big park, etc. The biggest drawback to walking, is that with every step comes a call of "Lady, you want tuk-tuk," or "Lady, moto!" There is always an excess of moto and tuk-tuks in town, but especially as it is the low-tourist season in a global recession, there is an even greater number of drivers just sitting and waiting for someone to drive. Biking is great, as I avoid these cat-calls, but whenever I walk somewhere, it is through a constant verbal stream. It's as if the drivers don't understand that sometimes, some people just like to walk. I do enjoy, however, since I mostly bike, that when I take a moto or tuk-tuk, I get to answer someone's call and give them a bit more business that day.
More on Cambodian living, and more pictures to come soon!
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Apsara Dance
Here is a video from my Apsara dance lesson with Paula, a distinguished dancer who also does accounting for Sovanna Phum. In addition to learning some basic dance moves, she taught me stretches to make my fingers curve in that unnatural way the dancers' fingers do. She wants me to do them everyday, but after a great pain in my forearm, I have to admit I've been slacking in my stretches. Nonetheless, enjoy the video (sorry that it's sideways, I can't rotate with basic Quicktime, so next time I'll know to shoot horizontally...).
Friday, June 12, 2009
Jewelry Designer
The past two weeks of volunteering at Sovanna Phum have seen some interesting projects. Last week, I edited show descriptions that are given to foreign visitors. Translating from something that vaguely resembles English, to literate English, was difficult at times, amusing at others (I know, I know, English is not the first language of the translator, but we've all had the experience of a humorous translation, so laugh with me!).
For instance, I changed this:
Last week I also oversaw the cleaning and re-organization of the Puppet Shop and Gallery. The shop doubles as an office, but I tried to communicate the importance of the shop being inviting from the outside. We cannot control whether audience members buy anything, but we can certainly re-arrange to encourage them to go inside.
With a little encouragement and some fresh ideas on my part, theatre workers made it their own -- they took the idea of change, and ran with it. Soon, every puppet was off the wall, shelves were moved between rooms, a computer desk was moved from a place of prominence to a less central location that is also more conducive to work and playing music. Previously, some of the most impressive puppets and photographs were above the door, or on the adjacent wall. But now they are across from the door, so they can be seen from outside the shop, and have been spruced up with colored lights. The new shop arrangement is both inviting and open, showcasing the products while remaining comfortable, with space to move and a flowy breeze, and artistic, with spray-painted pinecones and leather keychains hanging from the ceiling. I also provided the suggestion to invite our guests to try making a puppet right then and there, for fun, to advertise puppet-making classes they offer, and to remind them that making the shadow puppets is both a skill and an art. So we set out a pattern and tools, crafting a bird that will be the eventual product of a hundred hands.
Rearranging the placement of impressive puppets.
Yana, a Cambodian Fulbrighter, learning how to make a puppet after a performance.
This week led to a new challenge and excitement. I was asked what other products can be sold in the store to generate increased revenue for the theatre. While many people love the hand made puppets, the theatre staff recognize that not everyone has a purpose or desire to own a puppet, and for some travelers they are too big to carry (who are those crazy people that wouldn't want a puppet?!?!). I made a lengthy list of possible items to show off the leather crafting skills: belts, purses, picture frames, wrist cuffs, brooches. But we decided to start simple, and this week I have been experimenting, with the assistance and artistry of the puppet makers, with jewelry design. I went to the market to buy ear wires, necklace chains, and spray enamel to protect the leather. Through trial and error, in just a few days, we have generated a line of earrings and necklaces that will go on sale at tonight's performance, and will be showcased in the US upon my return! It's been very exciting, all my American friends here want to buy them (or learn to make them!), and I can't wait to see the audience's reaction.
At the same time, we have been developing greeting cards with leather designs on front. Not being able to find good quality blank cards in the market, I bought paper, printed it with the theatre's name, and have been hand-cutting cards, explaining to my Cambodian friends why we add a blank white paper to the inside (the cards are marbelized yellow, and the white section is for writing). The puppet makers, meanwhile, have been doing their thing and producing beautiful, intricate designs, ranging from lotus flowers and birds, to heads of Ramayana characters.
Like with re-organizing the shop, it's wonderful to see that, with a little encouragement and a little push, they have made the projects their own. This morning, I looked around and while I was attaching ear wires to earrings, four artisans were carving out different designs. They are very excited to continue with both the jewelry (utilizing scraps of leather from the puppets, making it almost no cost to them by using what would otherwise go in the garbage) and cards (Lakena already had the idea to make animal designs based on the Chinese Zodiac for use as birthday cards).
What new adventure is in store for next week? Perhaps we will experiment with color on the jewelry, or making picture frames? I have the weekend to think about it, and will report back with updates!
Lakena showing off some of our finished jewelry designs.
Carving a lotus for a greeting card.
Putting the finishing touches on a bird to go on a card.
A few of our finished cards.
For instance, I changed this:
"Got seriously injured, Enthachit went to see his mother for help. Immediately after having been drinking his mother’s milk, he was completely cured and wanted to go back to the battle field. His mother insisted not to let him make war with Rama but he refused. This time at war, he’s disguising himself as Preah Indra (King of Heaven) accompanied by Apsara (Angel Dancers), in order to fool Preah Laks again."To this:
"Seriously injured from the arrow, Enthachit goes to his mother for help. He drinks her milk, and is instantly cured. Enthachit's strength returns, and despite his mother's insistence that he not continue war with Rama, he returns to the battle. Enthachit once again tries to fool Preah Laks, and arrives at the battle field disguised as Preah Indra (King of Heaven), accompanied by Apsara (Angel Dancers)."
Last week I also oversaw the cleaning and re-organization of the Puppet Shop and Gallery. The shop doubles as an office, but I tried to communicate the importance of the shop being inviting from the outside. We cannot control whether audience members buy anything, but we can certainly re-arrange to encourage them to go inside.
With a little encouragement and some fresh ideas on my part, theatre workers made it their own -- they took the idea of change, and ran with it. Soon, every puppet was off the wall, shelves were moved between rooms, a computer desk was moved from a place of prominence to a less central location that is also more conducive to work and playing music. Previously, some of the most impressive puppets and photographs were above the door, or on the adjacent wall. But now they are across from the door, so they can be seen from outside the shop, and have been spruced up with colored lights. The new shop arrangement is both inviting and open, showcasing the products while remaining comfortable, with space to move and a flowy breeze, and artistic, with spray-painted pinecones and leather keychains hanging from the ceiling. I also provided the suggestion to invite our guests to try making a puppet right then and there, for fun, to advertise puppet-making classes they offer, and to remind them that making the shadow puppets is both a skill and an art. So we set out a pattern and tools, crafting a bird that will be the eventual product of a hundred hands.
Rearranging the placement of impressive puppets.
Yana, a Cambodian Fulbrighter, learning how to make a puppet after a performance.At the same time, we have been developing greeting cards with leather designs on front. Not being able to find good quality blank cards in the market, I bought paper, printed it with the theatre's name, and have been hand-cutting cards, explaining to my Cambodian friends why we add a blank white paper to the inside (the cards are marbelized yellow, and the white section is for writing). The puppet makers, meanwhile, have been doing their thing and producing beautiful, intricate designs, ranging from lotus flowers and birds, to heads of Ramayana characters.
Like with re-organizing the shop, it's wonderful to see that, with a little encouragement and a little push, they have made the projects their own. This morning, I looked around and while I was attaching ear wires to earrings, four artisans were carving out different designs. They are very excited to continue with both the jewelry (utilizing scraps of leather from the puppets, making it almost no cost to them by using what would otherwise go in the garbage) and cards (Lakena already had the idea to make animal designs based on the Chinese Zodiac for use as birthday cards).
What new adventure is in store for next week? Perhaps we will experiment with color on the jewelry, or making picture frames? I have the weekend to think about it, and will report back with updates!
Lakena showing off some of our finished jewelry designs.
Carving a lotus for a greeting card.
Putting the finishing touches on a bird to go on a card.
A few of our finished cards.Wednesday, June 10, 2009
Let Them Stay Kids
I know it's all around me. I know I encounter it on a daily basis. I know it's at the heart of the country. But I will never be able to fully understand it.
A few nights ago, I took my $.75 street noodles into my host family's bedroom (which also serves as a living/dining room, in true Khmer fashion), and ate with them on the floor. I would have eaten the food they made for dinner, but their diet is strongly fish based and I don't want to inconvenience them with my vegetarian needs.
As I ate, with Sina (husband), Chivy (wife), and Nichola (5 year old boy), I remarked on how smart and fun Nichola is to be around, and how wonderful it is that he and his 1-year old brother Felix are always smiling and seem so happy. To which Sina replied, "We want them to stay kids for as long as they can, and to enjoy their childhood." My mind immediately went to the thousands of kids across Cambodia who work on the street with their parents, begging, selling, and collecting garbage. Or the children who are sold and trafficked into other countries and local brothels. I thought that Sina was implying that he and his wife work hard to provide well for their family so they can stay kids and not have to work at such a young age - a common sentiment among middle class parents around the world. Because of course Sina couldn't be talking about the other thing.
But Sina continued, "Because you know when I was his age, we had the Khmer Rouge." Oh, there it is! While I know Pol Pot's regime, resulting in mass genocide of 25% of the population, was recent, in the 70's, it was before I was born, resulting in my skewed sense of time perception. For some reason, I assumed Sina and Chivy were born after this period, in a sort of Cambodian baby-boom generation after libreation from the camps. But no, they were there. Sina was in camps, having gone to France as a refugee (he, and therefore his sons, have duel nationality). Chivy was born during the regime, and lived in an orphanage, separated from her mother at the beginning of her life.
We didn't talk much more about it, as we went on to talk about our days and some of my work at the theatre. But it really made me think. I had already thought that I wanted to talk to Chivy's mother about her experiences during the war when I know her a bit better and language isn't as much of a barrier, a woman of 70 strong years. But now I see that it's not just the elderly, it's the strong middle agers, it's the people who are just a decade older than me. The same people who honk and ask if I need a moto, the kind woman in the shop next to the theatre where I buy my Coke Zero every morning, the men who work in the theatre, working hard yet always stopping to rest and eat.
I am surrounded by survivors. And they are truly amazing.
A few nights ago, I took my $.75 street noodles into my host family's bedroom (which also serves as a living/dining room, in true Khmer fashion), and ate with them on the floor. I would have eaten the food they made for dinner, but their diet is strongly fish based and I don't want to inconvenience them with my vegetarian needs.
As I ate, with Sina (husband), Chivy (wife), and Nichola (5 year old boy), I remarked on how smart and fun Nichola is to be around, and how wonderful it is that he and his 1-year old brother Felix are always smiling and seem so happy. To which Sina replied, "We want them to stay kids for as long as they can, and to enjoy their childhood." My mind immediately went to the thousands of kids across Cambodia who work on the street with their parents, begging, selling, and collecting garbage. Or the children who are sold and trafficked into other countries and local brothels. I thought that Sina was implying that he and his wife work hard to provide well for their family so they can stay kids and not have to work at such a young age - a common sentiment among middle class parents around the world. Because of course Sina couldn't be talking about the other thing.
But Sina continued, "Because you know when I was his age, we had the Khmer Rouge." Oh, there it is! While I know Pol Pot's regime, resulting in mass genocide of 25% of the population, was recent, in the 70's, it was before I was born, resulting in my skewed sense of time perception. For some reason, I assumed Sina and Chivy were born after this period, in a sort of Cambodian baby-boom generation after libreation from the camps. But no, they were there. Sina was in camps, having gone to France as a refugee (he, and therefore his sons, have duel nationality). Chivy was born during the regime, and lived in an orphanage, separated from her mother at the beginning of her life.
We didn't talk much more about it, as we went on to talk about our days and some of my work at the theatre. But it really made me think. I had already thought that I wanted to talk to Chivy's mother about her experiences during the war when I know her a bit better and language isn't as much of a barrier, a woman of 70 strong years. But now I see that it's not just the elderly, it's the strong middle agers, it's the people who are just a decade older than me. The same people who honk and ask if I need a moto, the kind woman in the shop next to the theatre where I buy my Coke Zero every morning, the men who work in the theatre, working hard yet always stopping to rest and eat.
I am surrounded by survivors. And they are truly amazing.
Hanuman and Giant Drum
Now this is what I call a DRUM show! Last weekend's performance at Sovanna Phum, Hanuman and Giant Drum was an incredible drumming show, filled with an hour of intricate drumming patterns, comedy, and fantastic dancing. With an all male ensemble, the action never stopped. Presenting a variety of local and international drumming styles and instruments, the 10 drummers kept the beat going all night.
The performance began with a Buddhist ritual celebration, burning incense on a fruit alter, and lighting candles mounted on some of the drums (these candles stayed lit throughout the performance until they melted away, shocking me that they didn't take the drums - and theatre - down with them). This rutual welcomed the audience into the space, into the world created onstage, and introduced drumming as a spiritual artform, connecting the performers to each other and the audience. The ritual also helped to introduce the Buddhist story that would unfold to a slight degree, drumming and dancing as part of the ongoing battle between Giants and Monkeys in the Reamkher, the Cambodian version of the Ramayana. A small gong signaled the beginning of the performance, not to be heard again until the last number.
From here, the performance was shaped by 6-10 minute performance pieces, showcasing different instruments and highlighting different artists. One number proved highly comedic as six drummers left the stage one at a time, leaving a lone artist, the most elderly in the company, playing a traditional flat lute-like stringed instrument. Completely unaware of being left alone, he kept playing until the director jumped on stage and gave him a friendly slap to bring him back to reality. At which point he bashfully and apologetically left the stage.
There was also a piece with a drum and dance-off, where artists came forward and showed off their unique moves. This ended with one of the drummers, Mony, lifting and holding a tall African style drum by his teeth. Making the entire audience gasp and applaud with amazement, this feat became more impressive to me as I thought about his strong teeth without dental care and strengthening fluoride as we have in the states.
Hanuman and Giant Drum would not be complete without the spectacular dancing. Four young dancers appeared in the first half of the performance in a 'Giant' dance, with traditional Apsara style moves and regal gold costumes. But in the second half, accompanied by crashing sounds, they entered through the audience as monkeys, making the children giggle with delight and screams of 'SWAA!' ('monkey' in Khmer). They scampered through the aisles, and jumped on the stage. A favorite moment of mine was watching one monkey discover a drum, wacking it carelessly with a stick. Such a simple motion completely contained within his body, and his physical control rivaled that of the best American physical actors I have seen -- there was absolutely no doubt that he was a monkey.
At the end of the show, the director invited audience members up to learn from the performers. Of course I went up, learning from my friend Mony (the same drummer who held a drum with his teeth) how to play a low flat drum and putting my lifetime of rhythm training to use (that's what happens when your mother is a music teacher). It was a blast!
I attended both performances of the show, encouraging all my expat friends to join, and can't wait to see it again at the end of the month when it is re-mounted.
The performance began with a Buddhist ritual celebration, burning incense on a fruit alter, and lighting candles mounted on some of the drums (these candles stayed lit throughout the performance until they melted away, shocking me that they didn't take the drums - and theatre - down with them). This rutual welcomed the audience into the space, into the world created onstage, and introduced drumming as a spiritual artform, connecting the performers to each other and the audience. The ritual also helped to introduce the Buddhist story that would unfold to a slight degree, drumming and dancing as part of the ongoing battle between Giants and Monkeys in the Reamkher, the Cambodian version of the Ramayana. A small gong signaled the beginning of the performance, not to be heard again until the last number.
From here, the performance was shaped by 6-10 minute performance pieces, showcasing different instruments and highlighting different artists. One number proved highly comedic as six drummers left the stage one at a time, leaving a lone artist, the most elderly in the company, playing a traditional flat lute-like stringed instrument. Completely unaware of being left alone, he kept playing until the director jumped on stage and gave him a friendly slap to bring him back to reality. At which point he bashfully and apologetically left the stage.
There was also a piece with a drum and dance-off, where artists came forward and showed off their unique moves. This ended with one of the drummers, Mony, lifting and holding a tall African style drum by his teeth. Making the entire audience gasp and applaud with amazement, this feat became more impressive to me as I thought about his strong teeth without dental care and strengthening fluoride as we have in the states.
Hanuman and Giant Drum would not be complete without the spectacular dancing. Four young dancers appeared in the first half of the performance in a 'Giant' dance, with traditional Apsara style moves and regal gold costumes. But in the second half, accompanied by crashing sounds, they entered through the audience as monkeys, making the children giggle with delight and screams of 'SWAA!' ('monkey' in Khmer). They scampered through the aisles, and jumped on the stage. A favorite moment of mine was watching one monkey discover a drum, wacking it carelessly with a stick. Such a simple motion completely contained within his body, and his physical control rivaled that of the best American physical actors I have seen -- there was absolutely no doubt that he was a monkey.
At the end of the show, the director invited audience members up to learn from the performers. Of course I went up, learning from my friend Mony (the same drummer who held a drum with his teeth) how to play a low flat drum and putting my lifetime of rhythm training to use (that's what happens when your mother is a music teacher). It was a blast!
I attended both performances of the show, encouraging all my expat friends to join, and can't wait to see it again at the end of the month when it is re-mounted.
Friday, June 5, 2009
Happy Birthday!
The host family I'm staying with is absolutely wonderful. Like most Khmers, they are warm and friendly, always smiling. They have welcomed me into their home, and last Sunday was Felix's first birthday. Of course, this called for a birthday party! The party was actually for both Felix and 5 year old Nichola (whose birthday is in August), so it was double the celebration!
The day started with a trip to the market. I accompanied Chivy (the mom) and her friend to the local market, selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to sides of beef and freshly made noodles, all arranged in a chaotic yet organized manner (and that's just on the outside -- the inside boasts everything you'll ever need, like Target has exploded). Being a Sunday morning, the market was absolutely packed, as that is when the best and freshest choices of the week arrive. Watching my every step, I carefully followed my hosts through the market, taking it all in and being a crazy tourist with my camera at every junction. We bought about 7 bags of fresh food, which I thought I would be holding on the moto (moped-like motorcycles, the preferred method of transport in much of Indochina...and yes, I have a helmet) ride back. As it was, there were already three of us sitting on one bike and only a small basket in the front. But somehow, the food all fit into the basket, and by the driver's feet (there's a small foot pad there, which is the perfect size for anything small...food, a backpack, children, chicken).
When we returned home, party preparation was in full swing! Curry ingredients were being mixed with mortar and pestle, pots of deliciousness were heating on the stove, and balloons were being strung all over the driveway. I helped with the balloons, and allowed myself to be fed whenever offered, or about every 20 minutes (something I have learned that Asians have in common with Jews -- always giving you more and more food).
I had just stepped into my room to rest for a minute, when a knock at the door alerted me that the family was going to the Pagoda - would I like to go with? Of course! I have been to many Buddhist temples (often called Wats or Pagodas), but never with a family as part of a celebration (something I never had the chance to do in Singapore)! We drove to the Pagoda (my first time in a car in a week!), and went into a small room with a beautiful alter of Buddha statues, incense, and offerings to the monks. There were a few monks in the room, who greeted us and blessed the children (Felix and Nichola were there, as well as Sina and Chivy's two young nieces). The grandmother handed everyone a stick of incense, and I was honored when she gave me one as well, to leave as an offering to the monks. Going with the family to such a special occassion reaffirmed my fortune at being able to experience Cambodia's beautiful culture, and reminded me of the beauties of living with a family. Sure, a home-stay requires more compromises and adjustments than living in a nice apartment with other foreigners, but the rewards are incomparable.
Early in the afternoon, we sat down on the floor in the living room, to a wonderful feast with two kinds of noodles, fresh vegetables (yay!), curries, fruit, and of course, cake. There were two cakes, one for each boy, each decorated with the animal of the boy's Chinese zodiac. Felix, born last year, is a rat, and Nichola is a monkey. I'd like to see my cake with an ox....not as cuddly an animal :-) The cakes were surprisingly delicious (most cakes and pastries I've had in SE Asia are nothing compared to our American counterparts), and the birthday boys were happy.
It was a great day of celebrating, feasting, and getting to know the family. I met the French woman who lives upstairs and works at an NGO archiving Cambodia. I met Chivy's fire-cracker sister-in-law who offered for me to stay in one of the three extra bedrooms in her air-conditioned house. And of course, I played with the kids! Happy Birthday Felix and Nichola!
The day started with a trip to the market. I accompanied Chivy (the mom) and her friend to the local market, selling everything from fruits and vegetables, to sides of beef and freshly made noodles, all arranged in a chaotic yet organized manner (and that's just on the outside -- the inside boasts everything you'll ever need, like Target has exploded). Being a Sunday morning, the market was absolutely packed, as that is when the best and freshest choices of the week arrive. Watching my every step, I carefully followed my hosts through the market, taking it all in and being a crazy tourist with my camera at every junction. We bought about 7 bags of fresh food, which I thought I would be holding on the moto (moped-like motorcycles, the preferred method of transport in much of Indochina...and yes, I have a helmet) ride back. As it was, there were already three of us sitting on one bike and only a small basket in the front. But somehow, the food all fit into the basket, and by the driver's feet (there's a small foot pad there, which is the perfect size for anything small...food, a backpack, children, chicken).
When we returned home, party preparation was in full swing! Curry ingredients were being mixed with mortar and pestle, pots of deliciousness were heating on the stove, and balloons were being strung all over the driveway. I helped with the balloons, and allowed myself to be fed whenever offered, or about every 20 minutes (something I have learned that Asians have in common with Jews -- always giving you more and more food).
I had just stepped into my room to rest for a minute, when a knock at the door alerted me that the family was going to the Pagoda - would I like to go with? Of course! I have been to many Buddhist temples (often called Wats or Pagodas), but never with a family as part of a celebration (something I never had the chance to do in Singapore)! We drove to the Pagoda (my first time in a car in a week!), and went into a small room with a beautiful alter of Buddha statues, incense, and offerings to the monks. There were a few monks in the room, who greeted us and blessed the children (Felix and Nichola were there, as well as Sina and Chivy's two young nieces). The grandmother handed everyone a stick of incense, and I was honored when she gave me one as well, to leave as an offering to the monks. Going with the family to such a special occassion reaffirmed my fortune at being able to experience Cambodia's beautiful culture, and reminded me of the beauties of living with a family. Sure, a home-stay requires more compromises and adjustments than living in a nice apartment with other foreigners, but the rewards are incomparable.
Early in the afternoon, we sat down on the floor in the living room, to a wonderful feast with two kinds of noodles, fresh vegetables (yay!), curries, fruit, and of course, cake. There were two cakes, one for each boy, each decorated with the animal of the boy's Chinese zodiac. Felix, born last year, is a rat, and Nichola is a monkey. I'd like to see my cake with an ox....not as cuddly an animal :-) The cakes were surprisingly delicious (most cakes and pastries I've had in SE Asia are nothing compared to our American counterparts), and the birthday boys were happy.
It was a great day of celebrating, feasting, and getting to know the family. I met the French woman who lives upstairs and works at an NGO archiving Cambodia. I met Chivy's fire-cracker sister-in-law who offered for me to stay in one of the three extra bedrooms in her air-conditioned house. And of course, I played with the kids! Happy Birthday Felix and Nichola!
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