Look At Us Now

Sovanna Phum has performances every Friday and Saturday night, playing to both the local Cambodian population, as well as foreigners. Typically, the performance is from the theatre's cannon of ten or so traditional puppet, dance, and drum shows, rotating throughout the year. Last weekend, my first in Cambodia, was a special treat. It was the premier of Look At Us Now, a contemporary dance performance presented at Sovanna Phum by New Cambodian Artists, a project by young musicians and dancers in Phnom Penh. Look At Us Now was a co-collaboration between these Cambodian artists with a Dutch director and designers.

The piece explored the current situation of Cambodian artists, from where they started, to where they are now, tracking through the country's history and culture. The performance integrated traditional Apsara dance and contemporary dance with projections (rarely seen by Cambodian audiences), drums, and recorded music that helped tell the story.

Below are two videos from the performance. The first video is the women dancing in traditional Apsara style, in front of projections of Apsara carvings from Angkor Wat. Apsara (meaning, Angel Dancer) is a large part of Cambodian culture, and the iconic carvings from Angkor Wat are memorized by Cambodians around the world.





In the second video, the dancers perform the artist's position during the Khmer Rouge regime. The projections are of a photograph display at Tuol Sleng, the Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh. Easily recognized by anyone who has been in the museum, and any Cambodian, the photographs show every person who entered Tuol Sleng (a torture prison during the regime), most of whom never left. Much of this video is in silence (street noises are heard as the theatre is outside), with drums making the sound effects.




Look At Us Now was a stunning, exciting dance performance, that I was privileged to experience. It was a great introduction, coincidentally at the beginning of my time here, to contemporary Cambodian performance, showcasing the fusion of new and old. As I am studying classical performance techniques, it's a great reminder that Cambodian artists, like Cambodians in many other fields, are inquisitive and innovative, and as the country around them surges forward with continued development, they are ready to take the leap ahead.

My first puppet!

Today I made my first shadow puppet!

Lakena (pictured with a crocodile), who works at Sovanna Phum making and selling puppets, was my instructor. Today's puppet is simple, a small bird.











For this puppet, the crafting is fairly simple, using basic leather carving tools and techniques. First, the pattern was taped to the leather, then I carved out the lines and shadows as on the pattern. There were a few curved designs that take more finesse with the tools; I certainly improved while making this puppet, and with time I will become even better. After the pattern was completely cut, I painted detailing and contrast lines using a watered down dye. Finally, the bird was attached to a bamboo reed, and viola, a shadow puppet!


















I started a more complicated and bigger gecko, but won't have time to finish it until Monday. Also on the radar for next week, a monkey or human with movable limbs!

China Encounter

Jumping back in time a bit, but I wanted to share my brief experience in China.

To get to Cambodia, I flew through Shanghai. Here is what I wrote in the Shanghai airport, after nearly 24 hours of travel and no coffee:

So I'm sitting in the Shanghai airport. And while I don't have a visa, I have stepped foot in China (I went outside the terminal during my layover; shhh, don't tell!)!

Before getting off the plane that took me from San Fransisco to Shanghai, every passenger and crew member had to wait in their seats to be screened for swine flu. So, promptly upon pulling up to the gate, Chinese health officials entered the plane, wearing white quarantine suits that you might see in a movie when someone's contracted Ebola, complete with goggles and face masks. They pointed a laser gun at everyone's face to take his/her temperature, and with a red X on your forehead, you look like you're being scanned at the grocery store. If you have a fever, you and anyone sitting within 3 rows of you will be quarantined. In China. In the hospital. Which flight attendants call prison. (Last week, a handful of them were quarantined.)
Part of me hoped I had a fever just to be able to look at the experience in retrospect and laugh. Part of me was also terrified of being quarantined, and then, not having a visa, becoming a prisoner in limbo. Fortunately, no one had a fever.




The airport is spotless and sparking. There are recycling cans and fountains of 'sterilized water' (which I question, as the water tasted like dirt, and I had stomach problems that night, so it was either the water or the airplane food...equal demons in my book). As I waited in line for immigration (which I had to go through even though I only had a few hour layover), they played lovely classical Chinese instrumental music. Lovely until they played 'Memory' (yes, the one from 'Cats'). As I write this, sitting outside the Hope Star Coffee Cate, I hear 'Colors of the Wind.' Nonetheless, I'm happy to take advantage of the last clean, non-squat toilets I might see in a while.

Welcome to China. Zaijian!

Welcome to the Kingdom!

I'm in Cambodia!

All I've been thinking for the past two days is how amazing it feels to be back in SE Asia, and how fortunate I am to be here (a HUGE shout out to the folks at TYA/USA!). It's so normal and natural for me to be here, and after 5 months of wanting to come back, I've arrived!

Today I moved in with my homestay family. I'm living with Sina Ouch, the managing director of Sovanna Phum. He and his wife are fluent in English, and their 5 year old son Nichola speaks Khmer (the language of Cambodia) and French! Maybe I'll teach him some English and he can teach me Khmer; I find that the best words to know are the ones spoken by a 5 year old in any language, like when I learned "oishi" means "yummy" from a 4 year old Japanese boy.

The family also includes the grandmother, sister-in-law (who I have yet to meet), and Felix, Sina's son who turns 1 on Sunday. The family has been so warm and gracious, welcoming me into their home; they are excited I will be here for Felix's birthday party, and keep telling me to think of it as my home too.

The home is in a great central part of the city, bordered by local neighborhoods and one of the city's major streets. I'm very close to the Independence Monument, and not too far from the Royal Palace. I can walk to markets, parks, and the Mekong River. Today I walked to the supermarket, a fantastic bookstore, an expat neighborhood, a tourist neighborhood, and kept my poise while avoiding motorbikes coming from every direction.

Tomorrow is my first day of work at Sovanna Phum (Sina tells me I'll be making a puppet!), and tomorrow night I will see their performance of contemporary works.

This weekend will be one of continued exploration, helping me become acquainted with my home for the summer. And I'll try to get some pictures up!

Cambodian Three

My friend recently asked me what three things are on my must-do list for this summer. I was stumped. Other than learning about traditional Khmer theatre practices, experiencing the culture, and traveling the country (no small order for just over two months!), I could only think of one specific must-do! After thinking about it for a few days, I've come up with my Cambodian Three:

1) Visit Banteay Srei
Last year, I visited the phenomenal Angkor Temples in Siem Reap. I was blown away with the magnitude and details of Angkor Wat, the overgrowth of Ta Phrom, and the grown-up jungle gym of Ta Keo. Pressed for time and exhaustion with only one day to see the temples, I didn't see Banteay Srei, set 40 km away from the others. While I had wanted to see Banteay Srei at the time, having heard of its beauty, I didn't feel a loss since we had already seen so much. But since visiting the temples, Banteay Srei is the one I continuously hear about. Many Cambodians still pray there, experienced travelers remark on it, and the Cambodian Association of Illinois has an exterior relief based on Banteay Srei's carvings. This summer, I will see Banteay Srei.

2) Line Dancing on the Streets of Phnom Penh
While wandering the streets of Phnom Pehn, I saw a group of people gathered across from the Royal Palace at dusk. There were three distinct groups, with around 30 people, a boombox, and a leader. Suddenly three simultaneous yet separate line dancing sessions began. I didn't join them then, but I will definitely join them now!

3) Eat a fried tarantula.
KIDDING! But the culinary risk takers among us certainly can, along with snakes, cockroaches, larve, and fire ants. Yum!

3A) Volunteer!
Part of my work with Sovanna Phum will include giving back to the theatre and the community, by tutoring young performers in English, etc. But in Phnom Penh, there are so many ways to contribute to the growth of the culture and individuals. From tutoring kids to help them stay off the streets and see the joy of education, to adults trying to work in the lucrative tourist industry, cleaning up a jungle trail, and of course, sharing the arts, there are infinite possibilities to give back. Stay tuned to see what I discover...

The Magical Kingdom

For today's post, here's a short background taken from the Lonely Planet website:

There’s a magic about Cambodia that casts a spell on many who visit this charming yet confounding kingdom. Ascend to the realm of the gods at the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, a spectacular fusion of symbolism, symmetry and spirituality. Descend into the hell of Tuol Sleng and come face to face with the Khmer Rouge and its killing machine. Welcome to the conundrum that is Cambodia: a country with a history both inspiring and depressing, an intoxicating place where the future is waiting to be shaped.

Just as Angkor is more than its wat, so too is Cambodia more than its temples. The chaotic yet charismatic capital of Phnom Penh is a hub of political intrigue, economic vitality and intellectual debate. All too often overlooked by hit-and-run tourists ticking off Angkor on a regional tour, the revitalised city of Siem Reap is finally earning plaudits in its own right thanks to a gorgeous riverside location, a cultural renaissance, and a dining and drinking scene to rival the best in the region. And don’t forget the rest of the country: relax in the sleepy seaside town of Kampot and trek the nearby Bokor National Park; take an elephant ride in the jungles of Mondulkiri Province; ogle the Mekong dolphins at Kratie or simply choose a beach near Sihanoukville.

The years of fear and loathing are finally over and Angkor is once more the symbol of the nation, drawing pilgrims from across the globe. Peace has come to this beautiful yet blighted land after three decades of war, and the Cambodian people have opened their arms to the world. Tourism has well and truly taken off, yet a journey here remains an adventure as much as a holiday.

Contemporary Cambodia is the successor state to the mighty Khmer empire, which, during the Angkor period, ruled much of what is now Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The remains of this empire can be seen at the fabled temples of Angkor, monuments unrivalled in scale and grandeur in Southeast Asia. The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Khmer genius, is simply staggering and is matched by only a few select spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu or Petra.

Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the heavyweights, but to some extent they are a bubble, a world away from the Cambodia of the countryside. This is the place to experience the rhythm of rural life and timeless landscapes of dazzling rice paddies and swaying sugar palms. Spend some time in the srok (provinces), as Cambodians call them, enjoying a dar leng (walkabout) to discover the true flavour of the country.

The south coast is fringed by tropical islands, with barely a beach hut in sight. The next Ko Samui or Gili Trawangan awaits discovery and, for now, visitors can play Robinson Crusoe. Inland from the coast lie the Cardamom Mountains, part of a vast tropical wilderness that provides a home to elusive wildlife and is the gateway to emerging ecotourism adventures. The mighty Mekong River cuts through the country and is home to some of the region’s last remaining freshwater dolphins; cyclists or dirt bikers can follow the river’s length as it meanders through traditional communities. The northeast is a world unto itself, its wild and mountainous landscapes a home for Cambodia’s ethnic minorities and an abundance of natural attractions, including thundering waterfalls and pristine crater lakes.

Despite this beautiful backdrop, life is no picnic for the average Cambodian. It remains one of the poorest countries in Asia and it’s a tough existence for much of the population, as they battle it out against the whims of nature and, sometimes, of their politicians. According to the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP; www.undp.org), Cambodia remains poorer than Mongolia and El Salvador, just scraping in ahead of Mauritania, while Transparency International (www.transparency.org), the anticorruption watchdog, rates the country a lowly 151 out of the 163 countries ranked. Income remains desperately low for many Khmers, with annual salaries in the hundreds of dollars, not thousands, and public servants such as teachers unable to eke out a living on their meagre wages.

Cambodia’s pristine environment may be a big draw, but much of it is currently under threat. Ancient forests are being razed to make way for plantations, rivers are being sized up for major hydroelectric power plants and the south coast is being explored by leading oil companies. All this helps add up to an ever-stronger economy, which is growing at an incredible 10% a year, but it’s unlikely to encourage the ecotourism that is just starting to develop.

Cambodia is like the teen starlet who has just been discovered by an adoring public: everyone wants something from her but not everyone wants what is best for her. The government, long shunned by international big business, is keen to benefit from all these newfound opportunities. Contracts are being signed off like autographs and there are concerns for the long-term interests of the country.

Tourism has brought many benefits to Cambodia: it provides opportunity and employment for a new generation of Khmers, has helped to spark a rebirth of the traditional arts, and has given the country a renewed sense of pride and optimism as it recovers from the dark decades of war and genocide. However, not all tourism has been good for the country and there is the dark side of sex tourism, human exploitation and a casino culture. Cambodia is in a great position to benefit from the mistakes of other countries in the region and follow a sustainable road to tourism development. However, it may be that the government is more focused on the short-term gain that megabucks investments can provide. Can Cambodia be all things to all visitors? So far, so good, but a new era is about to begin and the beaches are the next battleground.

There are two faces to Cambodia: one shiny and happy, the other dark and complex. For every illegal eviction of city dwellers or land grab by a general, there will be a new NGO school offering better education, or a new clean-water initiative to improve the lives of the average villager. Such is the yin and yang of Cambodia, a country that inspires and confounds. Like an onion, the more layers you unravel, the more it makes you want to cry, but these are spontaneous tears, sometimes of sorrow, sometimes of joy.

Despite having the eighth wonder of the world in its backyard, Cambodia’s greatest treasure is its people. The Khmers have been to hell and back, struggling through years of bloodshed, poverty and political instability. Thanks to an unbreakable spirit and infectious optimism, they have prevailed with their smiles intact; no visitor comes away from Cambodia without a measure of admiration and affection for the inhabitants of this enigmatic kingdom.

Cambodia: beaches as beautiful as Thailand but without the tourist tide; wilds as remote as Laos but even less explored; cuisine as subtle as Vietnam but yet to be discovered; and temples that leave Burma and Indonesia in the shade. This is the heart of Southeast Asia, with everything the region has to offer packed into one bite-sized country. If you were only planning to spend a week in Cambodia, it’s time to think again.

Why Cambodia?

I am honored to be the recipient of an Ann Shaw Fellowship, from Theatre for Young Audiences USA -- TYA/USA. This fellowship is sending me to Cambodia to apprentice with the Sovanna Phum Arts Association. I visited the theatre when I was in Cambodia last November. Above are pictures from the production I saw, and below is a brief video clip. Here is an excerpt from my application for the fellowship, which will tell you more about why I'm going:

My first day in Phnom Penh [during my brief visit to Cambodia last year], the capitol city, I happened upon the Sovanna Phum Art Association. Here, I saw a traditional performance, Preah Kho Botr, incorporating shadow puppets, Apsara dance, and live Khmer music in the telling of a Khmer folk tale pre-dating the Ramayana. What first told me that this production would be different from others I had seen was the mix of locals and tourists in the audience. While the tourist market helps to financially sustain the theatre, the locals in the audience told me this theatre is committed to keeping the arts and traditions alive. And it sure was; the production was magical! I am a tech-theatre junkie, yet I was completely captivated and catapulted into another world in a theatre with just 12 lights, puppets, and a cyc. Both children and adults, both Cambodians and foreigners, were spellbound.

I hope to return to Phnom Penh next year to apprentice with Sovanna Phum (Golden Era) and learn about their traditional art forms – Khmer puppetry, music, and dance. I look forward to incorporating my new skills into both drama education and TYA in a myriad of ways: teaching body control and movement, part of a devising process and product, use in performances, etc. While many American children have not been exposed to shadow puppetry, they are certainly captivated by creating their own hand shadows with an unattended projector; shadow puppets take that natural curiosity to the next level. In Singapore [on my Fulbright Fellowship last year], I assistant directed a play incorporating human shadows, which students loved both performing and watching. My experience with Sovanna Phum will also inform a TYA play I intend to write – what could be better prep than learning about traditional art forms and stories from a traditional company!

11 days!